The Market Tavern, W1

Originally the Old Chesterfield (a similar name has now been appropriated by a neighbouring hostelry), this is a mid-Victorian pub, situated in the Bohemian enclave of Mayfair that is Shepherd Market, where more-normal people meet and where the super-rich wouldn’t deign to tread. Quite a predictable interior here, being bare boarded with smoky blue walls and ceiling. There’s some white tiling, but not behind the bar as usual, rather to the left; perhaps the tilers were a bit cross-eyed. Tables are topped with dark grey marble and chairs are fairly traditional. Lighting is adequate, coming from modern hanging crystal lamps. There’s an upstairs dining room, though bar snacks include the likes of padrón peppers. The acoustics are very poor, with noisy chatter coming from professional customers, who were mainly in high spirits, for some reason; along with quite loud music, this didn’t make for a particularly restful experience. Ales: one unused pump, then Doom and Landlord, sadly reversed, meaning I had to plump for a half of keg Five Points JUPA at £3.45 and fine as to be expected. This looks like it may once have been a good pub, but isn’t really any longer, with more of a wine bar ambience; the King’s Arms over the road makes for an all-round better bet.

Initially offputting as all tables are laid for dining with short menus everywhere,but when I enquired if just drinking is OK I was told to sit anywhere.There were a couple of bar stools and a shelf near the side entrance if you don't want to risk sitting in close proximity to diners. The interior is basically square,mostly stripped out although there is a small raised section to one side. Food mains start at £12,but looked interesting. There are 4 handpumps with a decent range on my trip namely St Austell Proper Job,Tiny Rebel Cwtch,Thornbridge Hacksaw (unfined ,decent) and the ubiquitous Doom Bar. There are so many GK pubs in the area that this more interesting ale line up would tempt me back.

They had on several ales when I visited Thursday afternoon – Urban Dusk, Doom Bar, and Windsor & Eton Knight of the Garter (£1.95 a half), but I couldn’t get close enough to the bar to identify the Christams ale on the fourth pump. This is a gastropub – the cheapest main course was £10.75, for “wild salmon fishcakes, lemon and chive crème fraiche and baby gem and beetroot salad”. The pubs in shepherd’s market must be virtual gold mines as they always seem to be heaving with drinkers whatever time you visit. This one had numerous groups of vertical drinkers at mid-afternoon, perhaps enjoying an early finish for Christmas. But I managed to get one of the little tables for two in the tiny room at the back on the left which isolated me to some extent from the mayhem in the main bar area. But the pub itself isn’t bad, and was probably a backstreet boozer in times past. The furnishings seem to be exclusively normal tables and chairs, and wall decor is miscellaneous prints. Being a gastropub there are no fruit machines or others of their ilk (which is a big plus in my book), and I didn’t even see a TV. But this is a gastropub and is probably primarily intended for diners. You always seem to get the smell of fish in these places; possibly this serves to remind those who are only drinking what they are missing out on. But my Knight of the Garter was top notch and not overly expensive for this part of the world, and I would visit again if I could visit at a time when I would have a good chance of bagging a seat.

Official site of the Market Tavern - www.themarkettavernmayfair.co.uk

Official site of the Market Tavern - www.themarkettavernmayfair.co.uk