Ardlui Hotel, Arrochar

The permanent population of the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Loch Lomondside hamlet of Ardlui can be no more than a hundred, despite which it boasts its own railway station on the West Highland line. Out of season in November, with the marina and camping and caravan park almost deserted, but both still open, I was concerned that the pub might not be. To my surprise, I found it not only open but busy, with a mixture of residents, boat owners, locals and visitors who had travelled up from Glasgow or down from Oban on the train. Wonderfully situated at the head of the Loch, between the marina and the holiday park, the hotel has a separate bar and lounge, in addition to outdoor seating on the terrace overlooking the water. Meals are available and there is substantial, moderately priced, residential accommodation. Unlike many hotels these days, the public bar, the Lomond Bar, has a genuine pub feel to it, with music on the jukebox, football on TV, a pool table, a dart board and, most importantly, a lively, friendly and welcoming atmosphere. A piano in the corner and acoustic guitars hanging on the walls suggest live music sessions take place. There is exposed stonework on the walls, exposed ceiling beams and a real old fireplace (although not a real fire). With a stag and a bull’s head mounted on the walls, it has similarities to the better known Drovers Inn a few miles north along the road, without being quite so outlandish. With Old Speckled Hen priced at £4 a pint and Guinness at £4.20, it’s not cheap, but I wouldn’t expect it to be and the prices didn’t prevent me from staying for a few. Belhaven Best, Tennent’s, Carlsberg, Budweiser and Stella Artois lagers, plus Strongbow cider, are also on draught and there was one hand pump which wasn’t in use. With such a magnificent location, allied to the village pub ambience of the bar, this is a place with everything going for it and I’d recommend it to anyone.