First and Last, Penzance

So called because of its proximity to Lands End - a mile or so away - The First and Last Inn is a roadside inn dating back to 1620. As you drive towards Lands End, the pub sign proclaims " The Last Inn in England" and, on the other side as you drive inland from Lands End, it says ….( well, work it out for yourselves ). The Cornish flag flies proudly from the roof top. The main bar room has the de rigeur ( for Cornwall anyway ) interior of dark low beams, much exposed stonework, subdued lighting and marine and nautical memorabilia. Various commemorative T shirts pinned to the ceiling reflect the fact that, over the years, groups of cyclists and walkers who have completed the John O' Groats to Lands End journey have obviously been in here to celebrate their achievement and, no doubt, to rest their weary limbs. The principal item of note is "Annie's Well" - a glazed over entrance to a smugglers tunnel running to the cliffs. An information board tells us that this relates to Ann Treeve, a former landlady of the pub, who presided over local smuggling and wrecking operations. Eventually, she turned Queens Evidence and, as a reward (?), was staked out of Sennon beach and drowned by the incoming tide. Her body was laid out in the large upstairs room of the pub, prior to burial in an unmarked grave, for fear of retribution by grave robbers. At the front of the building, a large rusty anchor leans against the wall, but I didn't see anything to indicate from where it had originated. As well as the main bar area, there's a separate dining / restaurant area and, beyond that, a pool room. Most people however, seemed to be eating in the main bar area and, whilst still retaining something of a community feel, it is clear that passing trade from visitors to Lands End is a major earner.On my recent visit, a lunchtime special ( available between 12 and 2 ) was proving to be popular and good value. Reflecting the fact that the pub needs to pay its way long after the tourists have left for the day, the pub offers live music on Friday and Saturday nights, including on Friday 24th a band called Quijada - who, according to the flyer, are a " 5 piece Cuban inspired local sensation". On my recent visit, on the 6 pumps, beers were Sharps Doom Bar, Skinners Ginger Tosser and Skinners Annie's Revenge. The latter is described as "our very own ghostly brew" and, if you've been paying attention whilst reading, you'll understand the reference. All beers were priced at £ 2.60p which, given the location, seems very reasonable to me. If you're going to or coming back from Lands End, this strikes me as a very reasonable place to call in on for sustenance, of either the liquid or the food variety

Situated a mile or so inland next to an acient church in a small hamlet near Lands End, only a purist would begrudge the pubs claim to being the first and last pub in England (there is a large hotel with a bar at Lands End itself but that is hardly in the spirit of things). Dating from 1620, the pub has been altered and expanded somewhat but has certainly not lost any of its old world charm or character. It certainly appears to be a popular watering hole for the Land End to John O Groaters judging by the commemorative t-shirts pinned to the pubs ceiling where the teams obviously gather to celenbrate their often commendable achievements. The large dimly lit main bar is characteristically gloomy and basic with low ceilings, flagstoned floors, soot encrusted walls by the open fires, lanterns, pew seats, farming instruments and plenty of old photos of local maritime and village life. The basic widescreen TV has a rather murky picture but to be honest, a TV is out of character for the bar. 6 hand pumps but only 2 operational on my visit – Doom Bar (£2.60) and Skinnners Best (at £2 a pint, great value). I dare say the selection is expanded during the summer months. Moving away from the bar is a pleasant and brighter dining area which doesn't intrude on the pub and beyond this, a separate pool room with darts and a TV. The most interesting feature is in the floor between the main bar and the dining room. “Annie's Well” is now illuminated and glazed over and hides a smugglers tunnel that runs to the nearby cliffs. Outside to the rear is a large smoker's shelter, a few benches and a sizeable car park. All in all, a pleasant surprise to find a place that could so easily have taken the tacky and cheap tourist approach that seems to typify much of the Lands End area but instead has retained much of its own intrinsic character.

Real Ales and a food offering. Local beers including First & Last brewed by St. Austell. Beer garden. #GBG 2009 listed#

Official site of the First and Last Inn, contains menus and events listing - www.firstandlastinn.co.uk

Official site of the First and Last Inn, contains menus and events listing - www.firstandlastinn.co.uk