The Warren House Inn, Yelverton

When Private Frazer in Dad’s Army starts gazing skywards, rolling his eyes around and talking about w………ild and lo……nely places, The Warren House Inn could well be the type of place he is thinking of. It’s an atmospheric, granite built, country inn in an isolated, exposed setting high up on moorland Dartmoor. At 1425 feet above sea level, it claims to be the third highest inn in England ( although The Kirkstone Inn in Cumbria also claims this accolade – seemingly with more justification at 1496 feet ) Somewhat appropriately, perhaps, on my mid-September Saturday lunchtime visit, threateningly dark and gloomy skies and a howling gale force wind greeted me, but thankfully I managed to dodge the frequent squally showers. The main bar features flagstones, wood panelling, low ceilings, exposed stonework and a fine fireplace with a fire that has reputedly remained lit since 1845, the date of origin of the pub. An interesting book on sale behind the bar tells us that there was previously an inn on the opposite side of the road. Like much of the surrounding area, the pub is owned by the Duchy of Cornwall. A series of photos by the bar records the fact that the pub was cut off for 12 weeks in the winter of 1963 and supplies had to be brought in by helicopter. Somewhat surprisingly, in the main bar area, is an alcove with a dartboard, but we are told not to use it during meal times. An adjoining room on the left, in what looks like an extension to the original building, is also wood panelled and has some Beatrix Potter framed prints of bunnies. The pub name reflects the fact that there used to be many rabbit warrens nearby and the pub sign shows three rabbits chasing each other around. High up on a shelf around the room is a collection of whisky bottles. There’s also a large snooker table, although a large heavy board on top of it suggests that it may have been decommissioned. A separate room on the right has a lighter feel and is a dedicated restaurant. There’s some outside picnic tables across the road on the moor for when the weather is more accommodating. Perhaps not surprisingly, food dominates and a wide selection of meals is available both in the bar and restaurant. My food arrived promptly and was fresh and well cooked. Beers on were Otter Bitter, Brains SA and Adnams Broadside, a selection that might be described as uninspiring, but beer is evidently not the main focus of the pub. The Otter Bitter – at a predictably pricey £ 3.30p – was reasonable. The pub is a CAMRA Good Beer Guide regular. One to seek out if you’re in the area.