The Swan Inn, Cockermouth

A traditional white-painted stone-built roadside pub just outside the town centre. The small bar to the left on entering has the welcome sight of five Jennings beers on hand pump, including the less frequently seen Dark Mild. I called in here one Sunday lunchtime, the only sunny day of my pre-Christmas stay in the Lake District. Having walked 10 miles from Buttermere it was crazy to only order a half of mild, and I soon had the other half too. After paying £3.75 for a pint in Buttermere the night before, it felt like revisiting the 20th century to pay only £2.80 here. The landlady was welcoming and chatty, but the place was very quiet. I hope it has its busy spells, because to my way of thinking this was the best of the eight pubs I tried in Cockermouth in December.