Duke of Cambridge, Islington, N1

Tucked away in the back streets of Islington, the Duke of Cambridge is Britain’s only certified organic pub. Opening in 1998, the pub went on to achieve this surprisingly unique accolade from the Soil Association, ensuring that their products are all locally sourced and, of course, organic. It’s a decent concept around which to build a pub and I’m amazed that no-one else has given it a go. As you might expect, the pub has a gastro feel to it with bare floorboards and large scrubbed tables filling up a deceptively large main bar. The colour scheme is a simple mix of light and dark, with white walls and dark pillars and ceiling broken up only by the numerous blackboards listing all of their food and drink options in great detail. The kitchen is located in an area that you pass in order to reach the restaurant and the smells from the cooking were wafting through to the bar which wasn’t all that pleasant. I didn’t get a good look at the restaurant, but from what I saw, it looked a bit more stylish and comfortable that the bar area. I noticed that some of the blackboards listed a range of fruit and vegetables, explaining which of them were in season and at what point they may appear on the daily changing menu. A few people were eating in the bar and the tables all had a bottle of oil on them in an old St Peter’s Ale bottle. Four hand pumps offered four organic beers – Pitfield Eco Warrior and Duke of Cambridge Bitter, Celt Iron Age and St Peter’s Organic Ale. I opted for a half of the St Peter’s which was served in a dimpled half pint mug and was a little past its best. The keg range is limited, with none of the usual suspects present. I believe the Freedom Brewery produce a lager for the pub, although I didn’t spot it myself. A peek in the fridges saw the likes of Kernel and Pitfield beers available. I thought the drinking experience in this place was a bit akin to sitting in a canteen, but as a concept or a place to enjoy a bite to eat, they are onto a winner, especially given their location.

This pub doesn’t look like much from the outside, and I hadn’t planned on visiting it, but what drew me in was the sight of four pump clips that I didn’t recognise from the doorway. It turned out that three of the ales were from Pitfield Brewery (an Essex brewery I was told by the barmaid) – SB; Red Ale; and Eco Warrior. The fourth pump was dispensing St Peter’s Organic Ale. I detected a “green” theme here. The SB was OK; not good, just “OK” – and at something like £3.50 a pint. The interior of the single room pub is minimalist in the extreme. It’s bare-boarded, with furnishings consisting of large solid scrubbed wood tables, a couple of plain wooden benches, and a collection of assorted ordinary chairs. There’s nothing on the walls other than chalkboards giving details of the available wines, beers, snacks and a statement extolling their ethical meat sourcing policy. I didn’t see any menus, being in there late afternoon on a Wednesday, but there was a distinct odour of food still lingering. Well, it’s the first time I’ve been in a completely, and certified, organic pub. Giving this sort of choice to consumers has to be a good thing, but to be honest I didn’t really take to the pub. It’s light, clean, and airy, but I didn’t find it particularly comfortable, and thought it a bit characterless. I doubt whether I’ll go out of my way to visit again, but I’m glad this pub is here to cater for those who want this sort of pub.

Official site of the Duke of Cambridge - www.dukeorganic.co.uk