Star & Garter, Soho, W1

Dating from 1816 this is probably the only remaining real boozer in Soho; no gastropub leanings here, as all there is for food are hot snacks. There are hanging flower baskets with some fine Courage branding in gold letters to the picture windows. The interior is much more old-school: the floor’s modern bare boarded with linenfold-style wall panelling to three-quarter height, full-height in some places. The bar front and ceiling are some type of matchboard. Furniture is traditional with some banquettes. Décor features mirrors, brass knickknacks, framed prints, mirrors, hanging copper pans and willow pattern plates, balanced atop the picture rail. Lighting comes from Victorian-style brass and tulip lamps, with matching sconces. Period rock music played over the stereo and at least one TV was showing the football, with no one remotely interested. Customers were much older than most in the area and probably heterosexual. On arrival, the barmaid was outside smokin’ a fag, but extinguished it to serve me. Two unused pumps, then one dispensing Harvey’s Sussex at a reasonable £4.90 (I actually asked for only a half) and ok. This is a decent pub for what it is, but is let down by the all-dominating TV and one adequate ale; I agree with BF about the questionable GBG listing, which if improved – and assuming the TV were chucked in the builders’ skip outside – could be a destination pub.