Lion Inn, York

The Lion at Blakey Ridge is "in" Kirkbymoorside in the same way the Snake Pass Inn is "in" Bamford, or the Kirkstone Pass Inn is "in" Ambleside. In other words, it's in the "miles from anywhere" category. Thankfully, too, it's a lot more unspoilt than the two other potentially iconic pubs named, at least in my view. In the case of the Lion, there have obviously been additions and accretions, but it feels like the central pub is still there somewhere in the middle. Certainly, sitting as I was between the open fire (not lit at this time of year) and the ancient and somewhat careworn piano, I felt surrounded by a little bit of history, which is something I've not felt at those other two miles from anywhere pubs. A slight downside was being surrounded by people eating their meals: the smell of their over-vinegared chips and the sight of their dogs, all of whom were trying hard to look like they didn't want any scraps or leftovers. It was a pleasant surprise to notice that the staff were encouraging incoming potential diners to move through to the dining room, leaving more room for the occasional casual drinker in the more pub-like part of the pub. A notice on the door stating that clean and well-behaved dogs were the only type that were welcome also made a pleasant change. On the bar were eight hand pumps, featuring Theakstons Old Peculier, Best Bitter and Grouse Beater, Black Sheep Bitter, Copper Dragon Golden Pippin, (ex-Thwaites) Wainwright and Old Rosie cider. I went for the Old Peculier, which refreshes the parts other beers cannot reach when you're cycling. I'm tempted to add a point for no background music, but I think an 8 fairly reflects my experience of this pub. I'd return next week if it wasn't such a bloody long way from anywhere.