The Surprise, Chelsea, SW3

As Rex mentions, this was about the closest thing to a traditional pub in these parts, but it was certainly very traditional when I came here once before in the summer of 1993, having just watched Jurassic Park. Back then it was a lovely atmospheric old boozer, dark, mysterious with a great traditional brown lacquered interior. I recall ordering two bottles of Worthington White Shield, which a barmaid was about to tip into my glass. The landlord and I both shrieked in horror and she froze, the landlord explaining to her what would happen if the sediment were poured into my drink; we had a laugh about it, the landlord complimenting me on my pouring skills. A return the other night after more than 29 years, reveals something altogether different. The leaded lights, some with occluded glass and richly detailed bar front, are almost certainly original, the latter giving a hint to the pub’s past, but thereafter there’s a dark modern boarded floor, taupe painted woodwork and wainscoting to the dado, then terracotta walls to a white ceiling. Lighting comes from hanging white translucent lamps with matching sconces and furniture is traditional (tea lights and flowers to tabletops), with some vinyl banquettes to the periphery; lavs were very swanky. Décor comes in the form of miscellaneous prints, books and earthenware demijohns to shelves; there were two TVs, off, electronic entertainment in the form of gentle mood music; customers must have been local and were a mixed age bunch. Beers amounted to Surprise House Ale (no thanks), Landlord (reversed) then Black Sheep Best at a very pricey £3.00 a half, served by a polite barmaid and in good nick. This place may no longer be what was probably one of the best pubs in SW3, but although it’s a shadow of its former self, it’s actually still one of the better hostelries in this postcode, pleasant and tasteful, certainly better than the neighbouring Coopers and definitely better than the Phene.

Official site of The Surprise - www.thesurprise-chelsea.co.uk

Official site of The Surprise - www.thesurprise-chelsea.co.uk

This pub is apparently named after the ship that took King Charles II into exile in France back in the middle of the 17th Century. Odd, the things people name pubs after. The Surprise has recently re-opened after being closed for about five years. Before its closure it was the nearest thing to a traditional pub in these parts, but alas no longer. In effect it’s a restaurant, with the space crammed with tables all laid for diners, although there was a sofa near the fireplace on the left. The usual pastel shades are much in evidence, and the main decorative feature looked to be the Dali-esque picture (featuring a ship of course) above the fireplace. The exterior decor is also fairly minimalist, but with the cafe style awnings surrounding the pub. But although it’s essentially a restaurant now, there were three handpumps on the bar. Two of them bore Doom Bar and Young’s Bitter clips, but had signs hanging over the pumps announcing that they were “on a short break”. Nothing so common as reversing the pump clips here. The third pump had on an ale brewed in celebration of the forthcoming nuptials of Prince William and Kate Middleton, Windsor Knot brewed by the Windsor and Eton Brewery. This turned out to be an excellent ale (at £3.55 a pint) and will probably turn out to be my beer of the week. Also, I was offered the choice of a straight glass or jug, a practice that seems to be coming more common these days, and is to be applauded as it acknowledges customer choice. The barman was chatty and friendly, and the beer was excellent, but I have to say that it didn’t feel very comfortable or relaxing sitting on a stool at the bar (seemingly the only option for someone just wanting a drink) with the hustle and bustle of a busy restaurant going on around me. Perhaps it would have been more comfortable had I visited during the middle of the afternoon rather than at lunchtime. It certainly seems to be a thriving business as it was packed with diners during my Wednesday lunchtime visit. It’s in a very picturesque Chelsea backwater, and is probably worth a punt to anyone wanting to escape from the Kings Road. But I expect that if I visit again it will probably to have a meal, as a restaurant that does decent ale is certainly something worth having.