The Old Shades, SW1

One of several pubs at the top end of Whitehall, this is quite a smart venue that appears to cater equally for local office workers and bemused tourists. A narrow porch walkway leads you into a cosy front seating area with tables and chairs down both sides of the bare boarded room. There’s some attractive, high wood wall panelling throughout and a pleasant fireplace to the right makes for a good focal point before the bar emerges on the left-hand side. The bar counter is a thing of beauty thanks to a superb, glazed tile front beneath a modern metal top with a patterned handrail. The bar back is equally as impressive, with high, mirrored arches, the pub’s name written out across a sign at the top, and plenty of fake grapevines strewn across the whole thing. The bar area has a nice, patterned tile floor and stands beneath a grand cupola with relief friezes inside and a huge candelabra hung from the centre. Beyond the bar is a dimly lit dining area with tables and chairs to one side, large rugs on the floor and more of the same high wood panelling. A few old portraits adorn the walls and there’s a cool stained-glass pane opposite the bar, but otherwise, the décor is a little limited. A surprisingly loud ‘80s pop soundtrack was playing over the speakers, trying to compete with a packed, post-work crowd. On the bar, three ales from Youngs – Ordinary, Special and Winter Warmer – were supplemented by three guests in the form of By The Horns Stiff Upper Lift and Hopadelic plus Southwark LPA. For some reason, I turned down the chance to sample the Winter Warmer and plumped instead for a pint of the Hopadelic (£5.95), which was in fine condition and went down well as I sat at the bar and watched all the comings and goings of a busy, early evening. These pubs in the heart of touristy London tend to be a bit of a mixed bag and often compromise standards due to a sense of complacency that a guaranteed stream of custom brings. However, this place seemed to be completely on top of things and managed to maintain six cask ales, high in quality judging by my pint, and with efficient and friendly service too. I always assumed this place would be too food-led to really enjoy, but for me it’s the pick of the pubs at this end of Whitehall and I’m fairly sure I’ll be back again before too long. Date of visit – 15th November 2023

This is a classy old pub, with wood panelling throughout, a tiled front to the bar, a cupola in the ceiling towards the rear to admit some light and some very nice windows at the rear (see photos). The bar features beers from Youngs, which I had a few bad examples of when visiting Putney late last year, so I went for St Austell Proper Job, which was in good condition, though I find it a bit too in-your-face with its citrussy flavours. I wouldn't mind coming back another time.

Unsurprisingly for a pub with the ‘Old’ prefix, this was originally the Shades, the meaning of which can be read on CAMRA’s page and heritage website, as this is a pub of Outstanding Conversions and Restorations (?). The interior of this Arts and Crafts building is well covered below, special mention going to the bar back, dome with stained glass and Minton-style encaustic tiling; very Palace of Westminster. There’s a comfy snug of sorts to the rear, with studded banquettes and a log burning stove, lit. Ales from Young’s, with two unused pumps, Proper Job (reversed), Special (reversed), London Original and Winter Warmer at £2.70 a half and a significant improvement on my last slug of the stuff many years ago. This is easily the best pub in the immediate vicinity, certainly better than the Clarence and light years ahead of the Silver Cross next door.