Earl of Essex, N1

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Tris C left this review about Earl of Essex

The pub dates from 1856, undergoing major renovation work in 2012; the eagle-eyed will spot from photos that an extra two storeys were added and the interior was reordered, with the pub becoming home to its own inhouse brewery and keg only, a rash decision reversed in 2015 with the removal of all the copper plumbing and blessed reinstatement of cask.
Last visited by me in May 2018 and little seems to have changed, the only obvious change is the disappearance of the ugly brew kit. The interior is quite dark, with illumination coming from filament sconces and shallow metal shaded filament bulbs above the bar, aided by tealights to tables. The bar back is very attractive, framed with etched mirrors and topped with a rare backlit Watney’s parapet, featuring their infamous ‘Red Barrel’ motifs, glowing like two large red satanic eyes, flanking the name of the pub. Otherwise, the floor is bare, walls feature dark grey wainscoting then pale grey on up to a white ceiling. Furniture is conventional, with dark grey bare wood banquettes to part of the periphery with some pews; décor comprises trendy eclectic framed prints and dried flowers in bottles. Out back, there’s an attractive garden. What’s not so attractive are the ugly ceiling mounted aircon units, linked by industrial galvanized ducts. Customers are mainly youngish professional types, probably most living locally.
The ale front is extensive, with 14 taps and six pumps, two unused. All are unmarked, with a large ‘cinema’ board to the wall listing wares, style, brewery, ABV and price per pint and half, with real ale in the form of Burning Sky’s Plateau, Five Points Best (£4.90) and Bristol Beer Factory’s Espresso Dubs at £5.40, both on excellent form, served by a very friendly barman then equally friendly barmaid; a real cider was also available. This information is replicated on the pub’s website, allowing for an informed decision prior to visiting.
Due to the reintroduction of real ale, this is a great improvement over my last visit as this is now a great place to sup, certainly the best ale house for quite some distance. With the other two pumps brought online, this could be a minor destination with the score increased accordingly, but either way, I’ll be popping in whenever I’m in the area, which happens to be quite frequently, as this makes for an excellent double with the Island Queen.

On 27^th January 2022 - rating: 7
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