The White Horse, SW6

Please Note: This review is over a year old.

Tris C left this review about The White Horse

This is a late 19th century incarnation, the original dating from 1688. I last came here in the late summer of 1985, so decided that a return visit was in the offing after so long. I remember it back then when the Chelsea wannabes were moving in, the area starting to undergo the process of gentrification. I recall a passing Barbour-wearing pedestrian eliciting the disdainful comment from a local: ‘An udder feckin’ green jacket!’.
The pub was known as the Sloaney Pony an account of the arrival of the above and was really quite an early proponent of real ale. What really struck me on entering, is how little I remembered it; I actually had to go outside and check the name, then check on Google if there was another White Horse on Parsons Green, but no, I was in the right pub. I may be imagining things, but the place essentially looks like a modern creation of a Victorian pub. Indeed, online photos show that the place has been substantially hipsterfied and recently too.
The floor is modern bare boarded, but the most striking element is the walls and ceiling which have been painted black with some bare brick too. The white elegant dentilled cornice and ornate marble fireplace are the only real clues to authenticity; is the bar structure really original? Certainly, the shiny green glazed tiles to the side aren’t, nor are the halogen downlighters inset into the pot shelf. There’s a cut glass mirror to the rear, which may be original, also spotted was some vestigial etching to glass in an entrance vestibule. The answer lies on the pub’s Twitter account from January 2020 which reads: ‘Who's looking forward to seeing what we've been up to for 2 weeks? Our new and shiny pub will be opening at 5pm on Tuesday 28th January!’ – so there you have it: new and shiny pub indeed.
Furniture comprises mainly ordinary tables and chairs, but rather gaudy scarlet studded vinyl banquettes to the periphery; there’s a lounge breakout area, with a coffee table. To the wall, there’s a huge baronial portrait of a white horse, lit with a brass picture lamp. On another wall, there’s a BrewDog-style board listing ales and other info, but it didn’t nearly match the offerings at the bar; how often is it updated? Other lighting comes from white spherical opaque lanterns and large picture windows, with louvre blinds which give the place the feel of a restaurant or wine bar. There’s a large restaurant to the rear and toilets are marked ‘Pistols’ for men and ‘Dolls’ for women. The gents was swankily appointed but cramped; the loo seat was wonky, there was soggy paper on the floor alongside a new loo roll; how often are they checked?
Customers seemed to be local, but the trademark black Labrador brigade seemed conspicuous by their absence – can’t say I blame them – but some of the punters were squawking loudly and arsing about witlessly.
There are eight pumps, all in use, dispensing beers from the likes of Marble, Harvey’s, Ilkley and Moor, my pint of Revival coming in at an appealing £4.50 and very good it was too.
This pub is just about ok, but the rather bland and corporate feel of the place, especially in its current guise, doesn’t make for a great place to linger, however good the beer. There are plenty of other ale houses offering a more authentic experience; four more stops on the District line and you’re at the Express Tavern, where I’d prefer to be. Even the Atlas up the road, despite a more limited ale range, offers a far superior pub-going experience.

On 5^th October 2021 - rating: 5
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