Deviant & Dandy Brewery/Taproom, Hackney, E9

One of several breweries to open up a taproom in the arches along this stretch of railway, this is a particularly scruffy enterprise at the far end of the row. Entering from the service road, you first pass through the entire arch, full of brewing equipment and supplies in a seemingly disorderly manner, before emerging into a rear courtyard of sorts, also accessible from the very fer end of the service road without having to pass through the brewery. Out here, you’ll find a makeshift construction acting as the bar, with a remarkably high counter that I’m pretty sure some customers would have real difficulties seeing over. Next to this is a small cabin serving hot dogs, although I didn’t see anyone ordering any and the person manning the stall looked like they might drop dead from boredom at any second. This courtyard runs the length of around three or four arches and has a tarmac front apron, presumably where deliveries are made from, which gives way to a gravel space further back where a load of cheap canteen benches and tables have been dumped along with a ledge or two with bar stools in support. The only comfy seating can be found in a shelter at the very far end, which has been fitted out with one lone padded banquette. Potted plants add a splash of colour, as does some street-art graffiti – much needed in this dreadful industrial hellscape complete with razor-wire topped walls and trains rumbling periodically above the arches. Loud hip-hop music was playing, but this dispersed into the night air, probably bothering the neighbours more than it bothered me. Inside, I didn’t see any seating, but I did see the toilets, which have a partly broken door and a leaking pipe that had created a small lake, visible beneath the broken floorboards. There were five Deviant and Dandy beers available on keg tap, ranging from their Lager to a 10% abv Imperial Stout. An aloof barman served me a pint of their 5oz of Freedom, which was a bog-standard, unmemorable pale ale at the premium, unforgettable price of £5.80. This was a dreadful experience from start to finish – the lack of indoor seating, the dystopian outdoor setting, the bland overpriced beer, the couldn’t-care-less service and even the shoddy plumbing in the toilets – everything conspired to be as dreadful as it could be. Maybe I got unlucky with my beer choice and maybe, at a stretch, the courtyard could be nice on a warm summer’s day, but frankly I have no inclination to find out and can’t see me bothering with this place again.

Little or no taproom just some seating in the brewery and a little bar.Seating treehouse style in a couple of alcoves.Pleasant on a cool eveningMay/June but will be tough going when the weather gets cold.Good keg beers and great service from the chief Deviant who is a bit of a character.

Official site of Deviant & Dandy Brewery & Taproom - www.deviantanddandy.com