The Three Stags Heads, Buxton

One of those pubs that have entered folklore. I walked past it on the Inn Way to the Peak District during the midweek. It only opens on a weekend/bank hol. It looked rather foreboding - not helped by the real skulls on the pubs sign - now down to 2, following a storm. In the area on a Saturday, so I made it a destination visit. Following a good walk, I made my way in. The front door sticks - so you have shouts of "Push Down Harder" from within, and instantly you have made friends. A small main bar - flagged floors, massive fire range, rustic furniture. A second room on the way to the gents with more tables and art work. Nick nacks in front bar dominated by the shotgun wielding rabbit. Friendly customers (only two others at midday). They were on the Black Lurcher from Abbeydale, in pewter tankards. this is only sold here, but check the strength before ordering. 7.5%. I went for a more sedate Abbeydale - which was one of four casks on. Not sure they get the turnover to justify that. It felt a bit tired but if the place is only open weekends, it cant have been on from last week surely? Maybe I was just being concerned unnecessarily. Regardless, its a throwback place to go and a must visit for lovers of pub history.

This is my sort of pub, reminiscent of those places entered illegally in around 1969:no fuss, no machines,uncompromising. White washed and stonebuilt, in front of a farm and opposite a derelict garage in an exposed and windy area of the Peak District. The door off the road opens into a small, stone flagged room, with a bar at one end, a couple of tables and chairs, a veteran settle and a range pumping out welcome heat. To the right, another small room with an open, and on our December Sunday visit, smoking fire. The pub is, deservedly, in CAMRA’s list of unspoilt and historic interiors. The owners are highly regarded potters:the meals are served on their plates, and a showroom is upstairs.The landlord is a dog lover:most of the pictures and memorabilia are dog related, and three whippets joined us by the fire. Out of respect, we left our mob in the car. One should note that opening hours are restricted-Friday evenings and Saturdays and Sundays. The Three Stags’ Heads was an early outlet for Abbeydale Ales from Sheffield, and seems to source all its cask beer from there. Famously the house beer is Black Lurcher, at 7% ABV a delicious biblical black old ale, earthy and chocolately. This was backed up by Absolution, Brimstone and Deception, a high quality range in my opinion. Equally famously, no lager beer is kept, though I noticed some interesting looking Belgian exotica behind the bar. Meals were game based- good large helpings , served on the celebrated pottery. Not many pubs create that indefinable atmosphere where you can imagine hunkering down for an afternoon or evening,enjoying conversation with the company. The Guvnor and barman had that wonderful gift of being able to engage all comers in conversation:learning that we live in an old house with peculiar chimneys, he came up with an architectural book dealing with an interesting fireplace near whrer we live. We really enjoyed our visit: a proper countryman’s pub, one to be cherished.

Step back in time to a real old country local. There are only real ales on the bar, and an enquiry about lager causes a collective sharp intake of breath. For non-real ale drinkers there are bottled and polypin ciders, and some bottled Belgian fruit lambics. Abbeydale supply all the ales, including the pub's own Black Lurcher 8%. The tiny room in front of the bar counter has three tables and a large stone fireplace. To the right is another room with four large tables and a lot of pictures of dogs, mostly lurchers. Conversation touched on country topics such as fishing and poaching, and in this theme there was a stuffed hare in the window, equipped with a scaled down shotgun. Definitely worth a visit, but watch out for the restricted opening times. Public transport is also limited, but a short walk through Cressbrook Dale or along the road into nearby Litton or across the fields to Foolow or Great Hucklow will put you onto several bus routes.