Crab & Lobster, Thirsk

A thatched roof,somewhat unusual in Yorkshire, beckons one into a strange parallel universe where fur coats, divers’ suits and nautical memoriabilia sprout from every possible location.Designed by a committee composed of Krook and Captain Birdseye, the interior of this establishment feeds on a perceived need for egregious ephemera.Still, a change from redundant farm ing tools and twigs in vases. We were here to meet friends, so a group of us sat round a long table in the conservatory,similarily decorated. Primarily a dining destination, I was glad to see two handpumps on the bar, serving Copper Dragon’s Golden Pippin and Hambleton’s Bitter.The Golden Pippin was exceptionally well kept, and proved a match for the rich and unctuous pork that I ate. Unfortunately, the helpings (and prices) were approaching London levels, and I remain indebted to my daughter who was unable to finish her rather good fish’n’chips, and the charming waitress who brought an unordered pud. When I go out, I like a good feed;isn’t that what Yorkshire is famous for? Despite my quibble about the helpings, we enjoyed ourselves here:sometimes it’s good to give the inner Puritan the afternoon off and celebrate life’s riches.

Attached to a larger hotel next door, this is a gastropub par excellence verging on the point of being a restaurant. Originally a small cottage, which still forms the more pub like part of the complex, there is a conservatory at the rear which houses a more formal dining area. Both areas however are enlivened by a load of “stuff” caught in fishing nets hanging from the ceiling, including shells, golf clubs, pump clips, race goers enclosure badges and much more. The old cottage is thatched, which is a little unusual for the North Riding, included on the roof are thatched crabs and lobsters. Inside is a bar counter with three handpulls and a collection of keg fonts, you may also buy champagne by the glass. On my visit rather pricy (£3.70 / pint) Theakstons Best and Copper Dragon Golden Pippin were being dispensed, the price making the short measure more galling. As you can guess from the name, sea food is the major item on the menu, service by the part french - part yorkshire staff is very much restaurant in style. Dining tables jostle for space in the small low ceilinged bar leaving no space for casual drinkers except in the pleasant outdoor areas. The high quality of the food makes this a very popular eating venue.

Official site of the Crab & Lobster, includes menus and wine list - www.crabandlobster.co.uk

Official site of the Crab & Lobster, includes menus and wine list - www.crabandlobster.co.uk