Tan Hill Inn, Richmond

Famous largely for being the country’s highest pub and for featuring in an advertisement for double glazing,this pub has been admirably described by the learned scribes below. We approached it on foot from Ravenseat, and found it indeed to be remote and windy, though the distant glint and hum from the A66 somewhat spoiled the experience. On entering the pub, the anticipated Yorkshire Gothic-hikers, bikers,roasting footware and altitude related tat was diminished by wall to wall Steve Wright in the Afternoon (bless him.) Food was grim, my first pint of Black Sheep dire, though exchanged with good grace. The fresh barrel was on good form, however. A good spot for people watching: a couple sitting behind us finished their meal rapidly. On being asked how they liked it, the lady declared it to be disgusting and inedible.The landlord or chef came out, and with great diplomacy defused the situation by means of the magic discount. Yorkshire Gothic, I suppose. We’d been coming to Swaledale for years, and I’d never been inside: I doubt if we will again,but it’s one of those things…

Occupying a remote and isolated position in the North Yorkshire Dales is The Tan Hill Inn, surely one of the best known pubs in the British Isles, although, ironically, I’ve yet to meet many people who’ve ever been there. Helpfully signposted from the busy A66 a few miles to the north, it’s a car journey through moorland, along exposed narrow and winding country roads. Often having to slow down to little more than a crawl because of straying sheep, who appear impervious to the possibility of being run over, or the occasional car coming in the other direction, you’re just about to conclude that you must have missed a turning, when the inn suddenly looms into view on the hilltop in front of you. As we approach the pub and pull in off the road onto the gravel car parking area, we are reminded that the pub is 1732 feet above sea level, the highest in the country. It’s a typical Yorkshire stone built building with a farmhouse attached – a “rustic barn” – which I gather is used for wedding ceremonies. The main bar area of the pub has a flagstoned floor, padded pews, spindle backed chairs, dark wooden ceiling beams, much exposed stonework and a cosy welcoming log fire. A collection of bank notes and curly postcards decorate the ceiling beams. One area of the wall is devoted to various newspaper cuttings / magazine articles about the pub. Thus we learn that, a few years ago, the pub was closed for a few days over the New Year period due to snow and a number of people were stranded. We also see that, at various times in the past, the pub has been up for sale at £ 1.1 million and then £ 1 million. Interestingly, a small blackboard above the bar tells us that, as well as buying postcards and T shirts for 40p and £ 11 respectively, we can now acquire the pub should we so wish, for the princely sum of £ 900,000. Note also an old “Wolf and Whistle” pub sign and an unusual Ring the Bell game next to the door on the left hand side. A small counter alongside the bar serves teas, coffees, cakes, chocolate bars etc A second room on the right has several settees and more seating for diners. This room is carpeted and contains some musical instruments, old sewing machines and old typewriters. There’s also a piano and, overall, something of a drawing room feel. We also see several old Theakstons mirrors and framed newspaper cuttings about a fire at the pub in 1979. There’s also a photo and article about the famous Everest Double Glazing T V Ad in 1984/85. There’s several seats outside at the front overlooking the moorland where, on my visit, largely the only sound was the creaking of the hanging pub sign swaying to and fro in the wind. A small leaflet on the tables gives us a bit of history of the pub. We learn that it was a fully working coal mine as far back as 1586. Perhaps inevitably, we are also told of a ghost of a long serving former landlady, who is said to appear during alterations. In overall terms, there’s more of a traditional relatively unspoilt feel to the pub than one might expect, given its fame. A Motor Bike Club is based at the inn. There’s also occasional “Country and Northern” music. A Christmas party was advertised for 30 November. The Pennine Way passes the pub and, although not evident on my visit, the pub is equally as popular with walkers as it is with those arriving by car or by bike. The pub opens early for morning tea and coffee and there’s ensuite B + B available. Hearty pub grub is available and is perhaps less expensive than one might anticipate. On the real ale front, Theakstons Best and Old Peculier were available alongside Black Sheep and Ewe Juice, the latter being a 5% beer brewed especially for the pub by the nearby Dent Brewery. Unquestionably, this was an exceptionally enjoyable and memorable visit, admittedly largely due to the journey, a certain sense of achievement at getting here and, most of all, the stunning and remote moorland setting. You really should try and get here sometime – I’m certainly intending to be back one day

Part of the enjoyment of this remote Dales pub is the journey to get there. We enjoyed a long scenic drive up Butter Tubs Pass and beyond and were pleased to finally see the pub as it appeared on the horizon, although we had to remain patient a few minutes longer as the junction was blocked by ten or so very stubborn sheep. Having parked up and taken in the excellent scenery, we entered into the main bar with a lovely flagstone floor and, despite it being June, a lit fireplace to the right of the entrance. The servery runs along the back wall and is fairly cluttered with various pictures, postcards, amusing notices and the like which adorn many of the ceiling beams as well. There is limited seating in this room, including a couple of stone seats next to the fireplace, but it felt like the nicest room to spend time in. There is a smart looking restaurant to the left which has its own fireplace and some attractive décor. To the right of the main bar is the lounge, which has a number of sofas around the perimeter of the room and several standard tables and chairs. The room has something of a music theme (live music is advertised) with an upright piano in one corner propping up old sewing machines and typewriters, guitars mounted on the walls and an accordion and gramophone player on the window sill. There are a few snippets on the walls detailing interesting points in the pub’s history, such as when it was filmed for an Everest Windows commercial and the time it got badly damaged by fire. There were a good few people in here when we visited and there seemed to be a sense of camaraderie amongst everyone who had managed to find this place. The staff seemed like a very friendly and hospitable bunch although the pub dog wasn’t quite so friendly when one of the young children in the lounge woke it up. On the bar there was a choice of ale – Black Sheep Bitter and All Creatures, Theakston Old Peculiar and something called Tan Hill Ewe Juice that I assumed was a home brew. I gave the All Creatures a try and thought it was in good shape. Unfortunately I didn’t manage to spot a menu, so I’m not sure what the food is like, but I’d imagine the folk who walk or cycle here would need some pretty hearty fare to see them on their way. I thought visiting this pub was a unique experience and I really enjoyed the idea of finding this haven in such a remote and isolated spot. It’s a shame I could only stop for the one drink as it would be interesting to spend an evening here to get a better feel for the place – maybe that’s the excuse I need to make a return visit.