The Bear Cross, Kinson, Bournemouth

This is a large Hall & Woodhouse roadside pub with a rather unflattering location next to a busy roundabout. The place has been given a fairly modern makeover in recent years which has left it with a low-end gastro pub feel. Entering from the car park, you emerge into the corner of an L-shaped room with the main dining area running from front to back and a smaller bar space along the front for drinkers to settle down. The dining space sees a lot of pre-set tables running in two rows with regular chairs, under some pretty uninspiring decor including whitewashed walls and plain carpeting. The space is split-level, but is so remarkably bland that it goes full-circle and becomes memorable for being so utterly unmemorable. More standard seating can be found along the front wall, whilst the bar appears over to the right with its simple, straight counter and traditional bar back. The space to the right of the bar is by far the cosiest spot available, although I use that term loosely. Here you will find comfier seating options, a nice fireplace and warmer decor (i.e. not completely white!). A few more seats are available outside the front of the pub, but these directly overlook the aforementioned roundabout so only really work if you like your pint served with a chaser of diesel fumes. It’s a Hall & Woodhouse pub, and a pretty basic one at that, so don’t expect thrills at the bar. Just the two ales were available on this visit – Badger Bitter and Tanglefoot – with the former tasting a little flat to me. We came here specifically for some food and thought the menu looked pretty good, with our choices all being well executed. The waiter was a very cheery, personable chap and the only downside to the meal was the presence of a large number of flies on a hot summer’s afternoon. This place felt like it had a bit of potential that was very much not being exploited. The food was really good, certainly a lot better than I’ve had from many more ‘attractive’ dining pubs around Dorset, and the service was excellent. But the plain decor and insipid beer range mean this place is feeding off of scraps when it comes to pulling in punters who might otherwise use pubs in rural or town centre locations.

An estate-style1930s pub, originally called the Brickmakers Arms, in its own grounds next to a busy roundabout on the main road though Kinson. It is currently owned by Hall and Woodhouse. There is a car park and paved terrace at the front, the latter a bit small and scruffy, but it does allow you to watch the traffic on the roundabout while you smoke, if you are so inclined. On entering the single large bar the smell of cheap food is overwhelming and the muzak from the juke box is dire. Dogs are banned, while humans who only want a drink are tolerated rather than welcomed – the main business here is the food, and families are clearly the top earner as unruly children are allowed. Diners are crammed in, even using school chairs to boost the capacity. The WiFi didn't work. The bar is L-shaped and is part carpeted, part floorboarded. We didn't eat as it just didn't smell that appetizing. There were two bottled Badger beers and two on draft. I had a pint of First Call which was not well kept and not very enjoyable. I find it unlikely I would come back when there are better pubs in the area.