Red Lion, Romney Marsh

I first discovered this place back in the mid 1980s as part of a reprehensibly shambolic cycle tour of pubs serving Biddendon Cider. The only real difference between then and now is that the beer has a higher profile as I think there was just one or possibly two beers then. Visiting this pub is like being taken back in time by Doctor Who or visiting the set of a period drama. With the demise of Ridleys, King & Barnes and Brakspear there are very few unspoilt country pubs left in the South and this is arguably the best one. Having visited the Spoons near Eastbourne station on the way down the contrast could not have been greater. On my visit there were three beers on and a medium Double Vision cider. The three beers were Goacher's Light & Imperial Stout and Westerham Special Reserve. All three were in good condition and served straight from the cask. They were all £3.00 a pint which is only 10p dearer than the Long Man beer tried a couple of hours earlier in the Eastbourne Spoons. The 7.4% cider was £3.30. The only minus point is that it shuts at 15:00 even on a Saturday, but to be fair they didn't have any staff other than the mother and daughter. The stroppy teenager from my past visits appears to be running the pub now. There seems to be some confusion about how far it is to walk from Appledore Station. In my opinion it's a "long" mile. If you haven't visited here yet then what are you waiting for?

Doris’s, a thankfully unchanging pub on the Rhee Wall in Romney Marsh. I hadn’t been in for about twenty years before passing one sunny February Saturday lunchtime. I was welcomed by the company, and respectfully took my place to one side of the fire in the bar. The other two rooms were unoccupied. (When I first visited ,the room to the right was some kind of shop.) Others have spoken of the timelessness and uniqueness of the Red Lion: here, for once, these qualities are not forced ,not some sleight of designers’ hand, but the result of generations of use and affection. As a free house Doris’s stocks some interesting beers-I think lager and keg are noted for their absence. Locally, it is noted as a source of my favourite Goacher’s ales, and I was pleased to see their Mild, Gold Star and Imperial Stout available on gravity, together with Double Vision Cider. I gather the regular beer festivals are worth finding. A pub in a million, far from the dead hand of corporate Britain: a marvel.

Another wonderful Kent pub, I was lucky enough to go on beer festival day and enjoyed every second. The beer was in great shape, served from stillage. A fabulous 1940’s time warp interior (CAMRA heritage-listed, apparently) is full of wartime nik-naks and complimented by friendly staff and punters alike. It’s been owned by the same family for almost 100 years and is currently run by Doris, who is quite a character. Ale and cider predominate here - the only lager is bottled Carlsberg. Perhaps the downside is the outdoor toilets, which could do with a sweep and dust. An absolute gem, and I will be making sure I visit again soon! NB closed between 3-7pm

Not much more to add really apart from the one mile walk from Appledore is a little misleading as I'm sure its at least double that but don't let that put you off. Go - you really must!

The Royal Oak is an Enterprise business housed in modernised village pub, light and airy inside. Food (good but a little pricey for what it is) and real ales are served. What was lacking was atmosphere. The clientele seem to be more Johny Boden and Sloane Square than rural Kent, and the landlord, whilst a decent enough chap, was clearly more a businessman than a genial host. Four hand pumps were on the bar, but only two serving. I had a pint of Harveys which was fine but not brilliant. Being close just off the main road, it's a good place to stop for a meal and a quick pint, but there are better places nearby for a good evening's drinking.

This traditional Kentish country pub is one of a rare breed, an endangered species. It is a small independent locals' pub with charm, history and personality in every corner, unspoilt by contemporary pressure. The larger room was empty when I went in which left the main bar with me and 4 others in it. I was welcomed into the conversation by the regulars and left feeling that I'd had a great experience. I stuck to the Goachers Mild, which was excellent, but there were 2 other beers on which I will try next time I'm down this way. Thoroughly recommended.