The Bell, Ashford

Popular destination Shepherd Neame hostelry, located some distance from the village of Smarden in a hamlet named after the pub. The three rooms along the main frontage - one of which having a bar counter - have been refurbished and set aside for dining, with the traditional Cellar Bar on the car park side being a more convivial place for a drink. There are also some bench tables at the side and two pleasant beer garden areas at the back. Three real ales available from handpump - Master Brew, Spitfire and Early Bird (£3.50).

This was always going to be a controversial visit: we had n’t been in here since about 2001 or 02, ever since City Boy, a previous landlord, had ruined a family meal by his drunkenness and general boorishness.Prior to his disastrous tenure, I’d been a regular here since at least the mid seventies: at its best , the Smarden Bell had been one of those pubs that you’d have to rush back to, whatever (almost) you’d been doing. That was then…Nowdays ,it’s a Shep’s pub- a reasonable pint of Late Red was enjoyed. The food was OK, but the portions were small, service was friendly but haphazard. Food led, it no longer seems to have that buzz that successful pubs, both wet and foody, have.Objectively, it’s not a bad “destination” pub-lovely old building, pleasant surroundings, but I wouldn’t be heartbroken if I never returned, which is a pity, as we only live a couple of miles up the road.

Oh dear. I remember this place in its heyday. I first visited the place in August 1981 and have been back several times over the years. For years it was a place to get good food and good beer. But now – disaster! It's been taken over and is just another Shepherd Neame pub. Don't get me wrong, Shepherd Neame is good beer, and we had a smashing drop of the mild, but I tend to stay away from Neame pubs. They all do the same beer, and seem to have a corporate policy of not having a guest ale. The serious beer hunter will give a Neame pub a wide berth for this reason – probably half the pubs in the county are Neame pubs and they all do exactly the same half-dozen beers. Whilst it's in a very scenic location and has a really good garden, it's not what it once was, and is now certainly in last place out of the three Smarden pubs.