The Green Dragon Inn, Leyburn

Ancient Dales pub,slightly marred by an unattractive, if economically important, hotel block. The pub is full of nooks and crannies and interesting memorabilia. We sat in the Bar Parlour,admiring the fire in the range,on a wet October Monday lunchtime. On a previous occasion we admired the famous Force,but where slightly put off by the draughty corridor we sat in, together with a rather scarce meal. However,on this visit everything was fine and dandy,despite the house’s rather odd policy of locking the carpark gates during opening hours, with our car within. Beerwise, I enjoyed a couple from the nearby, and very good, Yorkshire Dales Brewery; also available were some of the usual North Yorks suspect, though I think that the pub rotates its real ales. A cracking pub,which is back in favour with us. Date visited:14th October 2013

In the small village of Hardraw, little more than a mile away from the bustling market town of Hawes, is The Green Dragon, a well known and characterful old inn. It’s a 13th century former coaching inn that still provides accommodation in letting bedrooms and a large bunkhouse As we approach the inn, we see a small old enamel sign by the entrance – “Hippies Use Back Door – No Exceptions”. We also see that mine host is one Mark Thompson – “Innkeeper and Waterfall Provider” A small passageway leads through to the main L shaped bar – denoted as “Parlour Bar” - on the left hand side. 2 adjoining rooms feature stone flagged floors, old antique furniture, low dark ceiling beams and two fine ranges. There’s plenty of old framed prints and photos to admire and, notably, a large impressive wooden plaque on which are inscribed a list of Patriarchs of Darlington Grand Division of the Sons of Temperance from 1885 to 1948. Subdued lighting from lanterns and the absence of any electronic distractions enhance the authentic olde worlde feel. Another adjoining area features a high arched roof and resembles a former barn. Here we see some farming implements hung on the walls, stuffed fish in glass tanks, a stuffed bulls head and a piano. On the right hand side of the passageway are further seating areas, but no bar servery. These rooms are in similar, traditional style. At the back is a large, more modern, typical function room. For those who don’t already know, the pub’s main claim to fame is its own waterfall, Hardraw Force, England’s highest unbroken waterfall. For the princely sum of £ 2, payable at the bar, one can take a short walk through a wooded glen on a gravel path at the back of the pub to view the 100 feet cascade, which falls through a gap in the rock face into the stream below. I gather that, when it has been raining heavily, the water cascades over the top of the rocks – but, disappointingly, this was not the case on my visit. On the way to the waterfall you pass a Heritage Centre block which, sadly, appears to be no longer open, and a number of picnic benches on the grass by the stream. On my two recent visits to the pub in September 2013, a steady flow of visitors called in to view the waterfall. Live music occasionally features and there’s an annual brass band competition. On my second visit, early one Saturday evening, several scruffy looking guitarists started up what appeared to be an impromptu and unstructured session of songs in the main bar, which were very well received by the usual mix of visitors and locals. I never did find out whether these musicians came in via the back door or not. 5 beers were on when I visited – Rudgate Jorvik Blonde, Theakstons Best, Dent Aviator, Timothy Taylor’s Landlord and Wharfebank Urban Fox. On my subsequent visit, Old Peculier was on which, at £ 3.45p, was notably cheaper than the T T Landlord - £ 3.80p. Beers sampled were in good form. The pub is a CAMRA Good Beer Guide regular. The pub is on a bus route and, during daylight hours, can also easily be reached by a short pleasant signposted walk across the fields from Hawes. You should definitely seek this pub out when the opportunity arises

Fantasic old (13th century) pub with plenty of beams and a flag stone floor. It all seems authentic and "olde worlde" although the adjacent hotel wing that you have to walk through to get to the loo's does spoil it a bit. The waterfall (alledgedly England's tallest, although there seem to be about half a dozen locally that claim that) is well worth the short walk and is a pretty unique pub feature! Good choice of beers plus Stowford Press cider which was an unexpected bonus. Friendly staff.

After many years absence I finally returned to what I have always considered one of the finest pub experiences in the country. My past memories of the pub were rather faded and I was a bit concerned with some of the comments regarding the recent changes but I needn't have worried. This is still one amazing place and probably in my Top 4 or 5 pubs in the country. The pub itself is bigger than I remembered with a central corridor that has the main (Parlour) bar off to the left (which itself has 3 distinct divides) and another 2 smaller rooms of to the right. The main bar is a museum piece, choc-a-bloc with antique furniture, stone floors, rag rugs, low beamed ceilings, a magnificent range with a wood burning fire and even a clothes drying rack suspended over the top. Beyond is a smaller but equally stunning room with more antique furnishings, plate racks and another range. Lighting throughout is quite dim with just the glow of a few lanterns and the fires giving it a real 13th century charm that befits the age of the building. Dotted around are numerous old pictures of the village and local group gatherings, old posters (some original, some sadly duplicates) including an 1885 poster advertising the local Brass Band Competition showing prize money of £42 and admission of 1/- (Premier League money for those days). To the right of the bar is a small courtyard that has now been enclosed making a light and airy conservatory with more collectables including an old bicycle, mounted animal heads, old tools, a piano and even one of the old doors mounted on the wall (complete with an effigy on my visit – be very afraid of upsetting people – you never know what they do with a few pins in this place!). The 2 other side rooms are quite small with an interconnecting doorway and each has its own individual character whether it be the stone floors, old portraits and some interesting barrel seats. Note also the numbered doorways, a relic of the old licencing laws when each room had to be specifically recorded along with its purpose. The beers are all locally sourced – 5 ales on my visit; 2 from Theakston (Best & Old Peculiar), 2 Timothy Taylor (Landlord & Golden Best) and Yorkshire Dales Dragon's Tale. Tasting notes are on display next to the bar should you need them. There is also an antique “Kerching” till which is still used although a more modern flat screen version is also on hand to the back of the bar. The food appeared to be reasonably priced compared to other pubs we had encountered although we didn't get round to eating (which we would have done had the nearby Tan Hill Inn not already catered for our needs). Most people will be drawn here by the magnificent waterfall 200 yards upstream from the pub, Englands highest single drop waterfall. Entry can only be gained through the pub (admission currently £2 – worth every penny) so they have a captive audience with regard to visitors. As you walk through what must be the most impressive beer garden in the country you will see the circular band stand where the annual competitions take place. A few minutes further on and you will arrive at the waterfall, a magical place especially after heavy rain although care should be taken – it is wet, muddy and slippery. Sadly you can no longer walk round the back and the path to the top is no longer passable but this doesn't detract from the spectacle. Kevin Costner fans will recognise it from the bathing scene in the movie Robin Hoiod Prince of Theives I may have always looked at the Green Dragon with more than a hint of nostalgia and it may have possibly clouded my judgment but I remain totally overwhelmed by the place. There are some minor grievances but in the scheme of things they are so trivial they aren't worth mentioning and certainly not significant enough to prevent the pub being a long standing firm favourite of mine.