The Punchbowl, Dorking

The first storm of the New Year:fallen trees, rain and lowering skies. A substantial fishtile hung medieval pub with a venerable roof of the local Horsham slate.I would think that this formed part of the tied estate of King and Barnes, cruelly swallowed up by Hall and Woodhouse several years back. Inside, low beamed ceilings and a fine flagged floor, an open fire in the rather stripped down main bar. To the left, a room laid up for dining, swirly carpets and leaded lights, to the right a rather camp public bar with comfy armchairs. Lunchtime, a few groups eating and drinking, together with our rather rampageous family party celebrating the end of the Christmas break. I must confess to a perhaps irrational dislike of Hall and Woodhouse’s “Badger” beers: I’d not had many good pints in the past, and the closure of K and B left a nasty taste in the mouth. The Punch Bowl offered three cask ales-Badger First Gold, Tangle foot, and the winter seasonal, Pickled Partridge. I didn’t try the First Gold: in view of the weather, I was looking for something darker. As we came in, the Swiss element were enjoying the Pickled Partridge, so I decided to follow their example. This was a ruddy brown ale,malt led with autumnal berries and an element of hoppiness. I was pleasantly surprised. However I found that the Tanglefoot put me in mind of a thin fruit cake, bland and inoffensive. Both beers were well kept and in good condition. The food was well presented and generously proportioned-I dislike small portions-and not unduly expensive by Surrey standards.The landlord was enthusiastic, and service welcoming.