The Ship & Shovell, WC2

Closed on Sundays and grade II-listed, this is famous for being a pub of two halves, because when it comes to halves, it has been determined that ‘two’ is the optimum number. However, the second half, which opens selectively, is actually a modern shop conversion dating from just 1999, but who really cares? It’s pretty and ornate inside, with dark wood panelling featuring integrated cut glass mirrors and linenfold-style panelling to one quarter height. Barring the modern floor, it’s otherwise a rather traditional affair, décor comprising framed pictures, with brass picture lamps; furniture is standard, nicely rustic and electronic entertainments seemed absent. The staff were friendly, stewarded by an old-school landlady, custodian of three H & W ales: Fursty Ferret, Badger and Tanglefoot at £2.70 a half and fine I suppose, but I was never going to go weak at the knees over their beers. This is a charming little place, where tourists are kept out by the forcefield that is the awful Sherlock Holmes, encountered on approach to this pub.