The Duke Organic, Islington, N1

This pub doesn’t look like much from the outside, and I hadn’t planned on visiting it, but what drew me in was the sight of four pump clips that I didn’t recognise from the doorway. It turned out that three of the ales were from Pitfield Brewery (an Essex brewery I was told by the barmaid) – SB; Red Ale; and Eco Warrior. The fourth pump was dispensing St Peter’s Organic Ale. I detected a “green” theme here. The SB was OK; not good, just “OK” – and at something like £3.50 a pint. The interior of the single room pub is minimalist in the extreme. It’s bare-boarded, with furnishings consisting of large solid scrubbed wood tables, a couple of plain wooden benches, and a collection of assorted ordinary chairs. There’s nothing on the walls other than chalkboards giving details of the available wines, beers, snacks and a statement extolling their ethical meat sourcing policy. I didn’t see any menus, being in there late afternoon on a Wednesday, but there was a distinct odour of food still lingering. Well, it’s the first time I’ve been in a completely, and certified, organic pub. Giving this sort of choice to consumers has to be a good thing, but to be honest I didn’t really take to the pub. It’s light, clean, and airy, but I didn’t find it particularly comfortable, and thought it a bit characterless. I doubt whether I’ll go out of my way to visit again, but I’m glad this pub is here to cater for those who want this sort of pub.

If you close your eyes and try to imagine what a large high ceilinged open plan organic pub in Islington looks like you probably wouldn't be too far off this place. On my visit there were four pittfield's ales and two freedom lagers alongside Luscombe organic cider. There is no music or TV, but it was very busy as you probably couldn't have put a pub like this in a better place. I think that this is a pub run by publicly educated people for publicly educated people.