The Portman, W1

Yet again, a place dating from the late 18th century, rebuilt around 100 years later, this was the Mason’s Arms until the current name arrived in 2010. This place is hugely different from the neighbouring Carpenter’s and Beehive, in that as it’s very food orientated, most people were munching the mainstay that is the burger, at rather modern tables. The floor is narrow boarded with an island bar, with roundel panels being quite ornate; the pot shelf is a modern metal wire gantry affair. Walls are mushroom coloured, much covered with large framed modern art prints; lighting comes from Victorian-style sconces, music played at a moderate level. The staff weren’t that accommodating – on entry, a barmaid emerged from behind the bar to direct me to a table, but agreed that I could just have a drink; in fact, some other customers were just drinking, on the other side of the bar. Two pumps were off, the other two being recently revived Allsopp’s Pale or IPA at £2.60 a half and rather nice it was too; I wonder if Kirsty gets a royalty? This won’t appeal to the hardened traditionalist, but compared to the social hell at the Carpenter’s and Beehive, this was an oasis of calm, serving up a decent ale; I know where I’d prefer to drink if in the immediate vicinity.

Corner pub with the bar in the middle. Four real ales but nothing above 4.5% ABV.