Ryries Bar, Edinburgh

Perhaps I caught it on a bad day, but the atmosphere felt rather rougher round the edges than the traditional look - with plenty of interesting details inside and out - would suggest. Six real ales on handpump, including the seasonal Caledonian 'Over the Bar' (£3.30). As well as the station, it will eventually be handy for the tram (ever they ever get round to finishing construction).

Traditional pub located next to Haymarket train station. Early opening (9:00 am) real ale and food available also has an Italian restaurant upstairs.