Malt & Hops, Leith, Edinburgh

Traditional pub serving 8 real ales and "craft keg".

After making my way along from Ship to Shore and surrounding bars I had almost given up on finding a proper pub and was beginning to dread what might have happened to the Malt & Hops as a consequence of the new money that has moved into Leith. I need not have feared though, as in the the realms of proper pubs this is a King among paupers, and the sight of eight handpumps cheered me up no end. It's thankfully much as I remembered it from a few years ago. The 'library' is still there with its back catalogue of GBG's, there are pump clips on the walls, water jugs on the ceiling and the whole bar is festooned with hops interspersed with fairy lights. Atop the fireplace is a large oil painting that I recall my Kiwi mate insisting was Italian, probably a Canaletto, until I pointed out the Lothian bus making its way across the 'Ponte Vecchio' and that it was in fact a painting of the scene outside the pub. Two old copper lanterns still sit in the windows and an old sign announces that 'Motor Buses stop here 6, 9 and 34'. I'm not sure if the numbers are the same but most buses going to Ocean Terminal stop outside and you could do worse than stopping off for a pint in this wonderful unspoilt pub.