The Guildford Arms, Edinburgh

Quietly situated around a bend just off busy Princes St, the Guildford Arms is a splendid wedge shaped Victorian gin palace with many well preserved features. The intricate and ornate high ceiling and the upper wall frieze are works of art and worthy of a visit by themselves. Factor in the ten handpumps serving a good range of mainly Scottish beers in excellent condition and you have one of Edinburgh's must visit pubs. I spotted beers from Orkney, Caledonian, Brewdog, Atlas plus Big Lamp from Newcastle. There were three on from Orkney, I plumped for the Northern Lights which was first rate. Not cheap at £5.40 for my pint plus a glass of lemonade, but I don't know how the split works. Comfortable, carpeted with traditional seating around the exterior walls, a stair rises from the middle of the pub to a galleried restaurant. Huge windows to the two outer elevations let in plenty of light and give scale to the room. The pub was very busy on Saturday afternoon and we had to hover for a table, but soon succeeded. Definitely worth taking the trouble to find, I could have stayed much longer.