Volunteer Arms (The Canny Man's), Morningside, Edinburgh

There are two separate bars and a warren of other rooms, each with their own character, in this popular local where eccentricity abounds. The collections of bric-a-brac must have taken decades to accumulate, and the exterior of the pub is not immune, with what appears to be an ancient dovecot in the back yard and random metal plaques and even a triptych adorning the front and side walls. None of this was suspected on my approach on Saturday night - the first sign that there is a pub here is a conventional red-lit sign saying "BAR" - but the immediate impression on entering is of overwhelming clutter, but in a good way. This includes a profusion of whiskey bottles behind the larger bar, which is to the right on entering from the Canaan St entrance. Through a doorway to the left is the other bar, which is smaller and normal in appearance, and the room here is relatively peaceful, the main room getting the benefit of some Tamla Motown hits which were played just a little too loud for comfortable conversation to also take place. Possibly the world's smallest snug is to be found by this doorway - no more than an alcove with room for a table and two chairs. There are three real ales on the bar, though the absence of hand pumps makes this not immediately apparent. Caledonian 80/- and Deuchars IPA were available on taps that were indistinguishable from the neighbouring keg taps. Timothy Taylor Landlord was also on, but only in the main bar. We went for the heavy, which was in good condition. Later we indulged in a malt whisky too - well, it seemed rude not to - and this also went down well. The customers were mostly greeted by others as they came through the door, so this is clearly a well-used community pub. We went down the road to Bennets Bar, but soon came back to this one for another half on the way home.