Ye Olde Starre Inne, York

Claims to be the oldest inn in the city, and whether this is true or not, it's certainly convincing enough as a courtyard tavern that understandably appeals to many tourists. The crossbar sign above Stonegate is a eye-catching feature; just as well, since the narrow passageway off the street is very inconspicuous. However, the most interesting feature is a coloured glazed screen for the former Brett Bros brewery (and the more prosaic name of the 'Star Inn') just to the left as you enter. The multi-room interior has only been partly opened out, so that retains a fair amount of character too. Greene King IPA, Abbot and a 'house' Best Bitter (no doubt from the same brewery) available from a row of eight handpumps, along with Landlord, Old Peculier and Old Rosie cider.

An ancient multi-roomed pub down a passageway meets corporate Greene King with predictable results. Actually it's not too bad at quiet times but avoid at peak tourist periods. Ales on typically various GK plus a few Yorkshire guests like TT Landlord and Old Peculier, tending to be served too cold but otherwise ok.

Supposedly the oldest pub in York, this is one that will inevitably appeal to the tourists. A sign over Stonegate highlights its location. Although you have to walk through an alleyway that leads into a small outdoor courtyard before you find the pub itself. The first thing that hit me was the loud music blasting through the alleyway and into the street, which seemed a little out of character for the surroundings. Inside, there are multiple dark and cosy rooms all around with a bar towards the rear. Plenty of what looked like tourists to the city were tucking into pub food that didn't look too authentic, no doubt all looking for the traditional English pub experience. There was one old boy drinking at the bar. Luckily the music inside wasn't as loud as it had been outside! Whether the pub is Greene King or not, I'm not sure. However, both IPA, Abbot and a house beer called Ye Olde Starre Inn were all on. Although, there were also 3 guests in Timothy Taylor Landlord, Theakston Old Peculier & Ainsty Flummoxed Farmer. The cider was Old Rosie. I ordered the Flummoxed Farmer and enquired about a CAMRA discount and was told by the rather dismissive barman that he would give it me anyway! I suppose when customers are guaranteed, customer service is secondary. The beer itself was ok and was at least something different from the otherwise mainstream range. I can see why this pub has never cropped up on my radar before and with so many fantastic hostelries in York, I doubt it will again.

It's many years since I was last in the Old Star Inn, to give it its orthodox spelling, but I wanted to remind myself why. Once through the narrow passageway from Stonegate there's a small courtyard with a white-painted building with a few tables outside; through here and we're into the pub proper, and proper old it does look. But even before entering there's an unmissable assault upon the ears from modern pop music emitting from loudspeakers seemingly mounted in every corner. Navigating my way through the small maze of rooms and corridors, I soon found the bar with its four beers and a cider, and a couple of empty hand pumps. Landlord, GK IPA and Abbot seem to be fixtures, but I went for Ainsty Flummoxed Farmer, a blonde in good condition. A group of bar hangers impeded my attempt to get my habitual photo but I overcame my shyness and asked them if they would mind moving momentarily, which they did. Looking around I found a really pleasant and much quieter room, probably the only one in the pub with no loudspeaker, although the pounding music still made its way in here, admittedly at somewhat reduced volume. The pub makes it onto Camra's heritage inventory of unspoilt interiors, but with only one star, perhaps implying that a lot of what can be seen is not as old, original or impressive as it might seem to the untutored eye. If I feel tempted to call in here again, I hope I will remember to click on the heritage link (below) instead. Though as I get older there's a fair chance I will forget and find myself popping in again. So here's a reminder to self: nice building, not much of a pub.

Yes this pub is found at the end of an alley accessed from Stonegate, but it is pretty hard to miss with ‘Ye Olde Starre Tavern’, ‘Established 1644’ and ‘York’s Oldest Licensed Inn’ written on a beam across the narrow street. The patio furniture outside the front of the pub was mostly being used by diners, there is more seating in a small enclosed area with a large television showing muted rolling news at the rear, but this was empty. My midweek visit was just before lunchtime so the many floor boarded seating areas in this sprawling dimly lit pub were fairly empty, but there was a queue snaking from the bar as people queued behind each other to order food. The lone barman was doing his best, but why on earth he was on his own I don’t know. I counted seven hand pumps that were drawing Greene King’s IPA and Abbot alongside Ye Olde Starre Inn Bitter (whatever that is), Black Sheep’s Best, Old Peculiar, TT Landlord and Weston’s Old Rosie cider. Standard and premium keg was also available. This pub certainly has some history to it and is well worth a look, but the Greene King ownership and family friendly food led status means that it isn’t somewhere I’ll be seeking out again.