The Haycutter, Oxted

This is a remarkably large food-led pub from the Brunning & Price chain, located in a rural area close to Oxted. The pub is set out across two distinctive areas, each with their own side rooms – the front entrance takes you into what looks like the original, older part of the pub, set in a cottage-like whitewashed building, whilst further back there is a very large main bar area in what appears to be a more modern extension, with a very large kitchen appended to the rear. The front part of the pub may give the external impression of being the more traditional area of the two, but once inside, you find yourself in an opened-out area fitted with the usual high-quality B&P furniture and fixtures. The room is bare boarded and has a mix of standard and comfortable seats arranged throughout, with a lit fireplace acting as a nice focal point. To the left, glazed screens have been used to create a side room with very high bookcases on the end wall, which give it a bit of a library feel and looked surprisingly good. A connecting arch to the rear takes you into the larger main bar area, which sports the same smart floorboards albeit covered in places by some very large rugs, half panelled walls with plain painted uppers and the servery along the left-hand wall. The bar has a rustic counter front and broad, mirrored bar back. Much of the wall space has been covered with traditional paintings befitting of the pub’s general décor, whilst potted plants line the window sills, with larger plants dotted around the rest of the room. The seating here comes mainly in the form of banquettes running around much of the perimeter and supported by regular chairs, although I got the impression that a few tables and chairs had been removed from the centre of the room to aid social distancing, which made it feel a little empty as a result. Another arch to the rear takes you through to what looked like a fairly dingy space with a few more tables and another glazed screen, behind which there is a second ‘library’ room with the big bookcases along the back wall. Outside, there’s a good-sized car park and a decent looking garden with a kid’s play area. As with most B&P houses, there was a decent ale selection comprising Harveys Sussex Best, Bedlam Porter, Westerham Hay Today and a house beer called Brunning & Price Traditional, brewed by St Austell Brewery. A real cider from Seacider was also available on handpull. I tried the Porter, which was a bit low on flavour but seemed to be kept in good condition. As per the new way of the world, we had a meal here as well and we both found the food to be good quality and, in the case of my roast turkey, very generous in terms of portion size. I’ve been to several B&P pubs previously, finding them to be smart, comfortable venues offering a good range of well-kept ales alongside their food-led endeavours, and have never understood why the chain isn’t more highly regarded by drinkers. However, I think with this place, I saw a different side of the chain, with the large, open-plan interiors diluting any character and stifling the atmosphere. Some of this may have been the result of changes made to comply with the current Covid regulations, but I suspect this place is somewhat less appealing to the drinker than others I’ve tried and whilst I enjoyed my meal here, I doubt I’d return unless I intended to eat again.

Substantial Brunning & Price food-led pub, just out in the country near Broadham Green on the west side of Hurst Green. Semi-traditional furniture and decor across the various seating and dining areas in front and either side of the central bar, all smartly done. Also has a patio beer garden on the opposite side of the driveway leading to the car park. Better-than-expected selection from the seven handpumps: the 'house' (St Austell) traditional bitter, Adnams Ghost Ship, Harvey's, Bexley Session ruby ale, Conwy Surfin' IPA, Scotney Green Hop ale (£4.30) and a Lilley's cider.