The Star, Leatherhead

"Please wait to be seated" the notice read as I entered. I ignored that of course (and there was nobody to greet me anyway) and headed for the bar where I noted Hogs Back TEA and Dorking Pilcrow Pale on 2 of the 3 handpumps, as well as 4 stools, while every table in view was laid out for dining. In fairness, that'll be where they're getting their midday business. There's something like 5 different lagers on offer. I opted for the Dorking and it was in great condition. It was also £5.55 and just under a pint. The large car park delivers almost all their customers, but I escaped on the 465. I'm guessing it's a bit more drinker-friendly at other times and the ale offering is interesting if restricted, so it's OK if you're not eating, but probably better overall if you are.

The beer choice seems to have improved since previous reviewers' visits. When I visited on Monday they had on three fairly local beers - Hogsback TEA, Dorking Brewery Pilcrow Pale (£4.30 a pint), and Reunion Beardtongue. I have to say that a couple of pints of the Dorking Pale went down in no time on a hot and sunny July day. This is a food led pub, but which had quite a few recognisable pub grub dishes - baguettes were £7 - £8; burgers + chips were £10.95 upwards; and steak and kidney pudding was £12.95. Inside there are several interconnected drinking and dining areas, with royal blue much in evidence. Most of the seating was laid for diners, with just a few seats in the bar area with no napkins or cutlery on them. There's a lot of seating at the front of the building, but this was a little too near to the busy main road for my liking, but there's a more secluded garden at the back behind the pub that was a bit nicer. Food is the major player here, in what I guess is a destination pub for those wanting a decent pub meal. There's a large car park which must surely be essential to this pub's viability and which had quite a lot of cars in it by the time we left the pub after 2.00 PM on a Monday afternoon. And the pub itself must have had over 50 customers in it as well. It is a bit out of the way though, with the only public transport being the half-hourly 465 bus towards either Dorking or Kingston. But it's certainly worth the effort of visiting, as long as you're not expecting a traditional unspoilt locals' pub.