The Dante Arms, Leyburn

Official site of The Dante Arms - thedantearms.co.uk

Official site of The Dante Arms - thedantearms.co.uk

Formerly the Black Swan, the pub has been renamed after the racehorse Dante, who was trained in Middleham and was the last northern-trained winner of the Derby. (This was in 1945, so it is a surprise to see the inn sign is in the style of a 19th century horse portrait.) The pub is large, with three rooms across the front at different heights and linked by steps, a reflection of the steepness of the hill leading up to the castle. The bar is in the middle one, with three hand pumps (see photo). I went for the Black Sheep, but it was in poor condition, probably the end of the barrel, and I had it changed by the lass behind the bar (who wore a T-shirt identifying her as employed by one of the racing stables in town). The house beer that I ended up with is from Wensleydale, and judging by the strength and colour may well be their Semer Water, possibly with the hops tweaked a little; it was in good condition but nothing to get excited about. The room has some original wood panelling and old settles provide the seating, with some incongruous modern cushions. The background music and TV screens were other modern intrusions I could have done without - all this minor griping would have been forgotten if my chosen beer had been in good nick. Ah well.