The George, SE1

Close by London Bridge Station is The George Inn, a well known pub on the tourist circuit that features in all the tourist guide books and which needs little introduction. As we turn off Borough High Street and into the large courtyard, we see a sign telling us that the pub was “immortalised by Charles Dickens in Little Dorritt”. We also see a sign referring to the pub as “London’s last remaining 16th century galleried coaching inn” although we are quickly brought down to earth by a message underneath reminding us in true ‘Spoons style to “please note your table number when ordering food at the bar.” The present building dates back to 1676 and replaced an earlier inn destroyed by fire. The pub sign depicts St George fighting the dragon, reflecting the fact that the pub was originally called The George and Dragon. The present pub only occupies the right hand side of the courtyard, but originally it used to extend round three sides. Sadly, much of the building was demolished in 1889 to aid construction of the railway. Imagine for a moment The New Inn in Gloucester with a much larger central courtyard and you get some idea of what The George Inn would have undoubtedly looked like all those years ago. The first bar that you see on the right hand side is the oldest part of the pub. This is a smallish and darkish room lit by lanterns and features fireplaces, stoves, horizontal wood panelling, fixed wall benches and low ceilings. On the far wall is an old Parliament clock. Note also the old serving counter with vertical sash windows through which you can still see a set of Victorian cash register style beer engines. Sadly, these are no longer used, although I do recollect that they were when I first visited the pub in the mid to late 1970’s. The pub is listed in CAMRA’s National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors. Further down the courtyard with a separate entrance is the main bar, which features a number of adjoining rooms running down the south side of the courtyard. These rooms generally have more comfortable, but largely traditional, seating and furnishings. Of particular note here on the cream coloured walls by the bar counter is a framed life policy in the name of a certain Charles Dickens presented to the pub in 1948 by Sun Alliance. It is clear that this main bar and the adjoining rooms are now regarded as the main focus of the pub, leaving the previously described old bar as seemingly little more than a curiosity for tourists and visitors. On my recent December early evening visit, the old bar was open for use, but there was no service and the sash windows remained steadfastly shut throughout. Unfortunately on a cold and drizzly evening, this meant that customers using this room had to brave the rain, albeit for only a few seconds while they made their way down the courtyard to the main bar to be served. Given the number of tourists who specifically seek out this pub – and there was no shortage of them on my visit – I think this is a pretty poor show. Upstairs, in the galleried part of the building, is a restaurant and various rooms that can be booked for functions. The large courtyard outside has the usual picnic style tables and is popular in the summer months. The premises are owned by The National Trust and the current leaseholders are Greene King. On my visit, as well as the normal range of GK beers, Nethergate’s Umbel Ale was on as a guest, as was the pub’s own George Inn Ale, which, needless to say, was the one most of the overseas visitors went for. If you haven’t been here before, you’ll probably want to if the opportunity arises and I’m not about to discourage you from so doing.