ReviewAn attractive, thatched pub in this small village outside Milton Keynes, food is clearly a major focus here although there were nonetheless a couple of locals sat up at the bar and none of the tables in the main bar area were laid up for food, which is more than can be said of many so called pubs. A supplement in The Telegraph last weekend listed 150 of the country’s best restaurants and alongside the usual suspects from Gordon & Heston was this one which gives you an idea of how seriously they take the food. Chef Emma Gilchrist is clearly one to watch.
The main bar area has several traditional features, and is cosy enough but perhaps lacks something in terms of real olde worlde charm. Just inside the door are a couple of ancient support timbers which are an attractive feature, but a large plate glass screen etched with the pub’s name and fixed between them seems to jar somewhat. Besides that, there is plain red carpeting on the floor, plenty of joists on the sagging ceiling, and rough cream plasterwork on the walls with wood panelling lower down. There were a couple of fire-places in here, a small brick one to the right with a wood burning stove and a large open one to the left with a massive wooden lintel across it and piles of logs stacked up on either side. This too had an etched glass screen in front of it though, which seemed a little odd, and a couple of low leather sofa’s in front.
To the rear is the bar counter and a wood panelled ceiling. This is presumably the main area for drinkers, and it some ways looked a little dated, although there was nothing at all wrong with it. There are two dining rooms off to the left, and although I didn’t investigate these, the decor looked to be very similar although obviously all the tables were laid up for food. Some attractive gardens at the front and side of the pub completed the seating arrangements.
As previously mentioned, food is the emphasis here and the menu concentrated on quality rather than quantity with a fairly concise selection. Main courses ran to eight or nine options plus another two or three on the specials board, and every dish had a suggested wine accompaniment printed on the menu. Prices were certainly at the top end of pub dining with the cheapest (vegetarian) option being only a few pence short of £15. Alternatively you could opt for a seven course tasting menu at £65, or £95 with wine! That said, the small specials board offered two courses for £18.75. Once I had ordered I was brought complimentary bread, one of which was a tomato and herb flavour as well as an amuse bouche of mushroom soup and truffle oil. I opted for the Poached and garlic roasted chicken with crispy bacon, puy lentils, baby onions tarragon and jus, and this was a generous and very tasty dish. Many of the puddings were just one word, and I went for “Strawberry” which consisted of strawberry mousse, strawberry compote, strawberry ice cream, jelly, meringue and honeycomb and this too was an excellent dish. By picking my main course from the specials board I managed two courses for £20 which I thought was good value considering what I had which I thoroughly enjoyed and I would happily return to sample something else.
Beers were a bit disappointing for a pub that puts so much effort in to it’s food and consisted entirely of Greene King offerings with their Abbot Ale, Old Speckled Hen and IPA Gold. There was also a pump for Ruddles Best, but this appeared to have run out. The solitary cider was Aspall’s Suffolk. This is a tricky one to mark – as a restaurant I’d give it a 9 or 10, but the beer choice was limited, the emphasis is on food and this is, after all, a pub review website.
