Fox & Anchor, Smithfield, EC1

Whilst most of the pubs around Smithfield Market are fairly down-to-earth, functional places, the Fox and Anchor stands out as a classy Victorian gin-palace style bar and restaurant. Entering past some excellent etched glass and a restored Victorian tiled mural, you find yourself in a very narrow room with muted lighting and dark mahogany decor combining to create a warm and pleasant environment. The servery runs along the left hand side of the main room and has a copper topped counter. There are champagne bottles above the front door and whisky boxes and a humidor opposite the bar, all of which adds to the up-market vibe the place gives off. Old photos of the market and surrounding area hang from the walls alongside newspaper cuttings about the pub, and a TV screen near the bar was showing muted live football. Past the bar, padded banquette and standard chair seating fills the rest of the room, before giving way to a second room which seemed to be full of diners on my visit. This meant that I didn’t get the chance to explore the series of small snugs at the rear of the pub, known collectively as the Fox’s Den. The pub promotes itself as a traditional inn, and accordingly offers accommodation in the form of six ‘boutique’ rooms. A most unexpected bonus for me was the interesting ale selection, which on my visit comprised house beer Fox and Anchor Ale, Liverpool Organic Best Bitter, Thornbridge Kipling, Moor Revival, Sunny Republic Beach Blonde and Mallinson’s Epicurean. A sign noted that Jake’s Orchard Cider is exclusively available at the pub and the keg range included the likes of Camden Hells Lager, Harviestoun Bitter and Twisted and Titanic Stout. My pint of Liverpool Organic Best went down a treat and it was very difficult to resist the temptation to work my way across the hand pumps. A real surprise this one – I popped in because I noticed they were showing the football, but I came away having enjoyed an attractive pub with great beer. The place may be a bit too food orientated to make it a regular drinking destination, but I’d be more than happy to perch at the bar if I thought future visits would match the excellent first impression I got.

All the ingredients were here for a pub that I would ordinarily really rate; good reviews on BITE, smart location, nice interior and a good selection of beers. And yet, I was left disappointed. I arrived on a saturday lunchtime when most patrons were eating, and when I was finally served I got a look from the barman as if to say 'Not eating with us, you cheapskate?'. On the ale front it is impressively stocked; Doom Bar, Adnams Stout, Meantime IPA, Nethergate Fox & Anchor Ale, Dark Star Golden Gate and Harviestoun Old Engine Oil meant an unusually difficult choice for yours truly. I went for the Engine Oil and was charged the quite astronomical £3.50. They serve beer here in ye olde fashioned Pewter tankards, a gimmick I probably would have appreciated more if I hadn't just been charged a kings ransom for the privilege of using it. There is a boutique hotel above the pub and on the wall near the door are lots of newspaper cuttings giving the place fancy reviews. I left distinctly underwhelmed, although since the barman was telling some punters they were 'fully booked' on the food front in the evening, they are obviously doing something right. I just resent being overcharged and then getting glacial service (and a suspiciously warm pint of ale) when all I want is a drink in a pub.

On the edge of Smithfield Market is The Fox and Anchor, a former Nicholsons pub that has now gone upmarket, placing greater emphasis on food and also now offering accommodation as a boutique hotel with 6 rooms upstairs. The advertising blurb by the bar uses the strapline - "Hops and Chops, Cuvees and Duvets". It still opens early in the morning for serving breakfast to market workers. Pleasingly, despite the change in direction, the pub has largely retained its characterful, traditional interior - a long single, narrowish bar with much ornate mahogany woodwork, banquette seating and many old framed photos of the area decorating the walls. On the left as you go in are a collection of framed newspaper and magazine articles, showering praise on the new enterprise. Do also note the fine Art Nouveau tiled frontage and entrance. Rather naffly, the ground floor toilets at the far end are labelled "Reynards" and "Vixens". A smallish TV in one corner was silently showing the Sky Sports channel. Prices for food and drink are predictably high - eg cod in Meantime beer batter, chips and mushy peas - £ 12.50p, corn beef hash and fried hens egg - £ 10.95p. On my recent early evening visit, most of the tables that were set out for diners were taken and drinkers were basically restricted to either standing at the bar or outside on the pavement. I wonder how the pub will cope on cold or wet days when the option of drinking outside won't seem so attractive. 6 beers were on, which included Harviestoun Game Burd, Fox and Anchor Bitter ( brewed by Nethergate), Nethergate Old Growler, plus beers from Adnams, Purity and Sharps. The Harviestoun - £ 3.60p - was not very good, but the Fox and Anchor Bitter - £ 3.55p - was an excellent pint. The pub is listed in the CAMRA 2010 Good Beer Guide. It appears that pints are automatically served in jugs unless you specify to the contrary. Despite the shift in emphasis, I still quite like this one.

Long thin pub bar near Smithfield market. Lots of old pictures on the wall. Nice beer house with traditional character. Beer is ok, a few real ales, quality is ok if not spectactular. Worth a visit

We had no intention to visit here but as we were passing on way to visit Charterhouse up the road the Fox & Anchor looks so good from the outside and inviting with the doors open on this warm day we decided to pop in for a quick one expecting to find a traditional cosy Victorian pub. And in essence you do. The exterior is definitely late Victorian with some fine brick and plasterwork and the interior is heavy period mahogany doors and fittings, plenty of etched glass and heavy brassware. But in reality what it is, is a Gastro pub / restaurant mainly set up to service the boutique hotel upstairs. Most of the tables are reserved for dining and if all you want is a pint then you are pushed to the front of the pub or have to stand by the bar and as the pub is very narrow, this means getting in the way of everyone else. But it definitely tries to be a good pub, with six handpumps on the bar and a non regulation beer choice. And my pint of Adnams Regatta was fine, apart from being a tad warm, bloody expensive even for this part of London and served in a pewter tankard, for which I could see no reason except for attracting tourists. I’m glad we did visit but not the type of place I can see myself popping back to just for a pint.

Randomness Guide to London - Fox And Anchor entry

Randomness Guide to London - Fox And Anchor entry

This is not my favourite pub – notwithstanding the excellent original tiling, etc. They serve pints of bitter in pewter jugs, which may look fine, but have a couple of serious deficiencies. Firstly, you are unable to see what the beer looks like, although I accept that you have a couple of other senses that should tell you what condition the beer is in. But more importantly, you have no idea how much beer is actually in the mug unless you want to stare at it for 10 minutes or so until the head subsides. But that’s just my subjective opinion, and others may enjoy drinking out of pewter tankards Also, the way the seats and tables are positioned makes it very difficult to get past the bar, and to get served if it is busy. In fact, even narrower than The Harp, which is saying something. Having said all that, the Sharp’s Cornish Coaster that I had tasted fine, at £3 per pint, which is pretty much the going rate for any beer in this part of the world. OK, it’s not a bad pub, but the option of having a tankard or glass (in the same way that at one time drinkers had the option of a straight glass or mug) would be an improvement.