Wolfpack, Fulham, SW6

Official site of Wolfpack - wolfpacklager.shop

An attractive building, this place dates from at least 1861 as the Maltsters, rebuilt in 1901 by the Royal Brewery as the Jolly Maltster, the name still visible in pargeting to the first floor, the current name dating from 2021. Inside and it’s a very dark, Gothic place, with a black ceiling and bar back, seemingly nothing remaining apart from possibly the parapet to the bar and a couple of etched and cut-glass panes near the entrance. The floor is boarded, with the walls being either rough bare brick, or ash coloured wainscoting to dado height; by contrast, the bar front is pale wood field panelled. Furniture was less than traditional and there was sport, especially so on a Megavision screen, which no-one was watching, customers being young and blokey. With 20 ‘craft’ keg ales, but no real ale, so I plumped for something cold, fizzy and crafty, brewed by someone I couldn’t remember, not that it was worth remembering, though I can remember it cost me £3.50 a half, tasting a bit of raw fish. This isn’t my sort of thing and anyway, I prefer my fish to come with chips and not in a glass.

Official site of Wolfpack - wolfpacklager.shop

I glimpsed some hand pumps on the bar when passing, so called in to see what was what. There were two pump clips turned around, and the other had Hobgoblin Gold on, so I didn't stay for a drink.

This is a decent looking pub that seems to have aspirations of serving a more upmarket clientele from its location just off Fulham Broadway. You enter directly to the main bar area which sees a scruffy metal topped counter running along the back wall. The servery also has a large modern bar back with a huge central mirror, which looks a bit out of place. The room has been painted in dull pastel shades and has light coloured floorboards which, when combined with the bright lighting throughout the pub, fails to create any kind of warmth or ambience. To the left there is a formal dining area with pre-set tables boasting sparkling glassware, all located under two walls of huge plain glass windows which must make eating here a bit like being a goldfish in a bowl. The bar area is over to the right and comprises an angular shaped seating area full of button backed banquettes, including some in a small snug-like space, and plenty of standard chairs. A TV screen was turned off but entertainment was available in the shape of a big stack of board games piled up in the window sill. Some tongue and groove panelling hardly livens the place up but I did spot one pleasant fireplace at the far end of the room with a stylish mirror above. Beyond, there is a side room of sorts with a nice patterned tile floor and some of that dreadful bookcase wallpaper that pubs seem to think makes their rooms more sophisticated. Three sofas here attempt to create a cosy spot, but ultimately it just feels cold and empty. There was no music playing in this pub, just the murmur of chatter, much of which came from some down-to-earth locals at the bar who clearly didn't get the 'up-market pub' memo. There are three handpulls on the bar but only two were in service on my mid-week visit, giving a choice between Brakspear Oxford Gold and Marstons Pedigree. The third pump had a reversed Brakspear Bitter clip, so I went with the Oxford Gold option and got a pretty decent pint. There was one remarkably industrious barmaid on duty who seemed to serve everyone, collect all the empties, sort out food orders and engage with the locals whilst three further members of staff just stood around like a bunch of dummies. This place had a little something about it that I quite liked, but ultimately has lost much of its character and charm which makes it quite a tricky place to warm to. I was glad I popped in here and got a pretty good beer for my troubles, but it's one of those places you already know you're unlikely to return to in its current guise.

I tend to agree with the previous reviewer - a pub with such a magnificent exterior shouldn't really be so underwhelming inside. But it's far from alone in that. I used to work within walking distance of this pub back in the 80s, when it was still the Jolly Maltster. A bloke I worked with was convinced it was called the Jolly Malteeser; probably a better name for it now! There were three ales on in here - Marston's 61 Deep; Brakspear's Bitter (£2.10 a half and undrinkable): and Breakspear's Oxfold Gold (below par, but just about drinkable). They do food - I didn't make detailed notes of the menu, but did see that fish & chips was £14.50. It's now largely opened up of course, although the bar counter and internal wall divider look original. It's now a fairly run-of-the-mill place, although the garden at the back must be very popular with the summer we are currently enjoying (or suffering as one fellow reviewer might put it). There's not much worth mentioning inside, although there's plenty of traditional furnishings and the strange looking artwork around the place - Maori or Pacific perhaps - is unusual, and in my uncultured view not in the least attractive. It's now a very different place to the Jolly Maltster of the 80s that I knew. The ale quality was disappointing, but perhaps I was just very unlucky.

The pub has a striking exterior with the former name "The Jolly Maltster" high on the front gable and homage paid to once Royal Brewery. Rather more underwhelming inside, a stripped out light coloured bright and airy single room, an elongated U-shape. Mostly boarded but tiled at one end where there is a walled garden beyond. A panelled ceiling has survived but not much else, the bar along the long side is dark green, large clear glass windows and a bit of bookcase wallpaper. The tiled end looked more suited for dining and a fair few were but I didn't check out any menus. Three handpumps, two on, Pedigree and Brakspears Bitter with Braks Oxford Gold reversed. A reasonable enough if ordinary spot in an area of mediocre places.