ReviewJust when you think you’ve seen everything that the capital can offer in terms of historic pub architecture, a pub like this comes along, offering something a bit different. In this instance, it is the pub’s fine porch and entrance that raise the stakes. Here you will find some superb tiled pillars and panels in bright colours and with some wonderful, intricate details, as well as a fine mosaic floor bearing the pub’s name. It’s as bold an opening statement as I can remember from any pub and it sets you up nicely for the fine interior within. Two front doors lead into separate bars. The right hand door takes you into the larger of the two rooms, where a curved servery runs along the left hand wall. The bar counter boasts a marble top and elaborately decorated front whilst the bar back has dark wood pillars and arches which rise up and culminate in a decorative mural depicting cherubs. This in turn is surrounded by a lot of stained glass panes, many with lovely, intricate inserts, above which you can admire the ceiling with its fine floral patterns. Marble columns run across the rest of the room and large decorative friezes run around the walls. The room has been carpeted and offers a mix of standard, banquette and armchair seating, suitable for such an opulent setting. To the right there is a marble fireplace with plants on the mantle and some great wood panels either side, each inlaid with countless small mirrors. To the rear of the room, through a high and wide archway, there is a large stained glass window and some additional seating. A slightly separated space stands to the left of the servery, with a part carpeted and part tiled floor. The end wall here is a stunning mix of etched and stained glasswork that merits closer attention. A winding staircase leads up to the toilets and a simple, bright dining room with much blander décor, some more stained glass features and a second servery. The room has mostly regular tables and chairs and is perhaps a legacy of the pub’s previous owner – celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey. Back outside, the left hand entrance takes you into a narrower bar which is semi-partitioned with a nice fireplace and a skylight. Comfy seating options can be found in here and it seemed a lot calmer than the main bar which was in danger of being taken over by out of control kids on my visit. A few benches are available to the front of the pub, which allows you to take a closer look at the entrance and should you wish to stay longer, the pub has five rooms available to book.
Sadly the beer range can’t match up to the splendour, but at least there were a few ales on offer. Options on my visit consisted of Young’s Ordinary, Greene King Abbot Ale and Morland Old Golden Hen, with Young’s London Session having just gone off. The Hen set me back £3.70 and was okay – nothing to really write home about.
I was really impressed by this place and was very glad that I made my way out here to visit. Things were let down a little by the screaming kids and the unexciting beer range, but I’d urge anyone with an interest in historic pub interiors to give it a try regardless.
