Lord Wargrave, Marylebone, W1

Mid-range gastro boozer that used to be a Youngs outlet, but no more. The L shaped interior has the semi-stripped back hipster look with painted brick walls and battleship grey bar. The main eye-catcher is the impressive whisky rack bar back, containing around 250 bottles (themed flights available). Tempted in by the ale range but looks, as often the case in London, can be deceiving; four pumps featuring Twickenham Grandstand, Youngs Bitter, Truman Zephyr and Clarkshaw Strange Brew. Both the Clarkshaw and Twickenham were flat and over-vented, plus too warm. Perhaps a better bet are nine keg fonts, a mix of stagers and craft incl Truman Skylark and Cote Breton cider. Most people in here were eating. Disappointing – better cellar skills and this could be worth a revisit. 5.5

Official site of Lord Wargrave - www.lordwargrave.com

Official site of Lord Wargrave - www.lordwargrave.com

Things seem to have changed here, this is no longer a Youngs/CW pub although they do still serve Young's Special. The other three were Windsor and Eton Guardsman, Twickenham Redhead and Truman's Zephyr (£4.10). Inside the place is a truncated L shape, boarded flooring, lots of exposed brickwork, some of which has been painted cream. The short end of the "L" had tables set for dining and Sunday lunches were being pushed hard but nobody was taking. Along the side, opposite the bar are a series of varying tables under large clear glass windows, some high, some low, with mismatched chairs as is seemingly de rigeur. Décor includes the usual old prints plus a few domestic looking tall mirrors, upper walls and the ceiling are dark green. Apart from the roast lunches (£14-£15-50), the menu had a mixed grill offered at a to me rather ambitious price of £22.50......before the service charge of 12.5% is added. I'm sure that is perfectly justified for taking the trouble to put the food on a plate and walk two metres to give it to you. My beer came in a clear glass handled jug, no option given. Papers on the end of the bar, pavement seating outside, live music advertised on Sundays after 5pm. It was an ok place I suppose even if I wouldn't eat here having won the lottery, beer selection decent and good quality.