The Spice of Life, W1

A large Victorian street-corner pub that has sadly had its heart ripped out internally - what remains has little to commend it. This also applies to the service as I waited for ages to get served and, after several latecomers got served before me, thought 'sod it' and walked out.

Pleasant enough pub but it has a bit of a plastic feel about it and gets very busy. You could almost imagine you were in a Wetherspoons but the “Spice” is actually owned by McMullens brewery which at least means that some unusual beers are on offer and at reasonable prices considering where the pub is. The main area of the pub is spacious with several tables although they get full very early. There is a raised stripped pine floor area with some imaginative tiling where the bar is situated. Service is very good – I was acknowledged by 2 different bar staff while they were busy serving other people. There is a false ceiling with built in lights and extractor fan outlets that contrasts with the chandeliers hanging either side from the original ceiling. Food is basic but looked fairly good when I saw it being brought out. There is a Wide screen TV but it is not really a pub geared for watching TV. Downstairs is a live music bar that hosted some big name punk bands back in the 70's but these days things are a bit more relaxed. Well worth checking out.

Official page of the Spice of Life at the McMullens site - www.mcmullens.co.uk

Official site of the Spice of Life, contains menu and wine list - www.spiceoflifesoho.com

Official site of the Spice of Life, contains menu and wine list - www.spiceoflifesoho.com

Official page of the Spice of Life at the McMullens site - www.mcmullens.co.uk

I spent Friday night in this pub standing at the bar with a large group of friends and it was very enjoyable. The staff were very friendly and knowledgeable and the bouncers were very amiable. The place was very busy but there was never a long wait to be served and the barman remembered the 12 drink order every time we required another round. It was a bit pricey, but you come to expect that in Central London. The available lagers were your bog standard Fosters, Krony and Heineken with a Strongbow thrown in. I'm not a bitter drinker, but I did make note of the AK, Country Best and Winter Ale. There is a room downstairs that had a group playing some music, but as far as I could see there weren't many people in there and I think there was a charge to go in, so I didn't. If I'm in the area I'll probably pop in for a few jars, but I wouldn't make a special trip.

Like so many London pubs in this area, this pub dates from the golden age of Victorian pub design. Originally called The Cantons, the original name survives on a metal “flagpole” at the top of the building, held by a Gryphon, or some other similar heraldic beast. It’s a shame that the interior doesn’t retain anything of its Victorian heritage. Inside it’s now a single room pub, with fairly modern and characterless furnishings, including some of the most hideous covered banquette seating that I’ve seen. It’s one of only a couple of McMullen’s pubs that I know of in town. They had two ales on: Country Bitter and something called McMullen’s Cask Ale. I found the service to be slow and unwelcoming. The one lady serving was preparing an ice bucket while I was (the only person) waiting to be served, for which purpose she had to walk past me several times. Fair enough – she was preparing drinks for customers who were there before me, but I think it would have been nice had she acknowledged my presence. Not worth going out of your way to visit, unless you’re keen to sample the rarely seen McMullen’s ales.