The Spice of Life, W1

Visiting late on a midweek evening, I was surprised to find this open plan, split level, single room pub near Leicester Square operating more like a lare night bar than a pub thanks to loud music, low-level lighting, minimal seating and a boozed up clientele. Inside, you find a spacious bare boarded interior with the bar on the upper level and most of the seating in the marginally lower space to the front. The bar has a typical dark wood counter and a smart bar back with modern features such as tidy shelving pillars, blue glazed tiles and a triangular pediment. A large, panelled pillar stands opposite and has some etched glass mirrors and a clock, and is about the only thing breaking up the space within. There's a banquette to one side and high tables and stools elsewhere, whilst in the lower space you can find lots of button backed banquettes around the perimeter with chairs in support. Traditional features are thin on the ground, but I noted some nice leaded upper windows with colourful panes that put me in mind of those in the Chandos near Trafalgar Square. I spotted a few unused TV screens around the room which were out of favour thanks to the loud music being played, and it appeared that some customers were emerging from a basement venue which apparently hosts live music. As a McMullen's pub, the ale range was uninspiring, with three handpulls offering AK, IPA and a rebadged house beer called Spice of Life. I had a couple of pints of the AK, which was alright, before calling it a night. The staff were variously cheerful and disinterested, but service was quick enough. I must've liked something about this place, as I stayed for a second pint, which I rarely do, but I'm not too sure why, as the beer was moderate at best, the music was deafening and the interior is nothing to write home about. It had a bit of life to it, which is a polite way of saying that most people seemed to be smashed, but I can't really recommend it much beyond that. Date of visit - 2nd May 2024

With a pub history on this site going back to the late 17th century, this is a late 19th century pub, originally part of the George & Thirteen Cantons, the current name in place since 1986. This was a first into this McMullen’s house; I had worked in the area over 30 years ago and we never came here, probably because we thought that, due to the name, it was an Indian restaurant. The interior is essentially a modern recreation of a bygone Victorian pub, with etched glass mirrors, leaded stained glass clerestory windows, some carved wood and a bit of tiling, with typical glass ‘n’ brass lighting; a nod to the modern is the suspended ceiling, presumably to cover the ductwork for the aircon. Customers were probably on a night out, but the acoustics in here really don’t do it for me; the sound of conversation and quite loud music was rather unrestful. Hearteningly, all four pumps were in operation. I forgot to note the other three, but I had an excellent half of their Best, at a very attractive – especially given the area – £2.35. This is a rare Soho outlet selling a selection of independent real ales, a world away from the Greene King/Sam Smith’s stranglehold in the area. However, it’s not the best pub experience, so I’d rather go to the Lyric.

Comfortable looking pub with nice wood clad columns inset with mirror.Does anyone like Mcmullens beer. My County bitter was dull.