John Snow, Soho, W1

As usual with Soho pubs, this dates from the early 18th century, but was rebuilt in the late 18th for Watney’s. It was known as the Newcastle-upon-Tyne until the current name’s application in 1956. Given Humphrey’s admirable – for once – penchant for restoration, I’m not sure how much of the interior is original, but it’s very attractive and with its bottle green paint job, cream Anaglypta ceiling, dark wood, cut and etched glass, with pot boy doors between rooms, much like the Angel in Bermondsey, but not as challenging as those in Maida Vale’s Prince Alfred. With normal seating, banquettes and a ban on music, it’s very evocative of the Victorian age. Sadly, there’s no draught beer, the most appealing drink being Old Brewery on keg at a pricey – for Sam’s – £2.35 a half and drinkable once warmed up. As for customers, they were generally fairly young, the pub being a well-known gay venue but not so in-your-face (so to speak) as other gay venues around the Old Compton Street pink triangle a short walk from here, most congregated outside, drinking from plastic mugs. This is a very nice pub. With a good choice of real ales, this could be something of a destination.