Princess Louise, Holborn, WC1

there are must visit pubs and then there are must must must visit pubs. Even without considering the price of beer, this is obviously in the latter category. You don’t need me to describe it so I won’t - just appreciate it. Thank god this one didn’t fall into the hands of M&B or Greed King, because it’s truly a gem. And 10/10 for the waitress who tirelessly rushed around the bar and somehow kept up with the stream of orders.

I first came here in the autumn of 1987 and then was something of a regular for a couple of years. The pub wasn’t then owned by the Sage of Tadcaster and as a result, you could get around eight ales on rotation. The lavatories were there but the panels – and possibly other elements of this pub’s fabled finery – may not have been present though. The pub was certainly more opened out and more comfortable. It also wasn’t rammed solid every evening. Restored in 2007 and now a CAMRA Heritage Pub: mirrors, tiles, partitions, cut and etched glass – this pub has it all, centred around a lovely long island bar. The pub is famous for its ornate gent’s lavatories, but there’s at least one unisex mini khazi which is – ahem – bog standard. A generally charming place but as mentioned, the screens reduce floor space and also impede eye contact with the staff which increases time spent trying to order a drink. They also mean that getting about the pub is a bit arduous – you can see why modern pubs have been opened out to such an extent. Ales: just the one of course, Old Brewery on cask and at a very reasonable £3.20 a pint. Ok, so this is a very attractive pub but it’s not that practical; it may be better at quieter times. This and the limited choice of ale mean that for me, unlike 30 years ago, this is now a must-visit curiosity, a place I’d take a friend who’d never been, but it’s not a place I’d choose to spend an evening. Closes at 6.45 pm on Sundays.