The Plough Inn, Faversham

A lovely timber framed Wealden Hallhouse, high on the North Downs above Charing. We came up on a wet and windy Sunday in September: the pub sign swung drunkenly from its post, and some happy and intrepid hikers gathered in the area around the front door. In the main bar to the right, an open fire blazed in the grate, and an important pub cat ruled the bar with an air of hidden menace. A room to the left was laid up for meals. The pub has something of a local reputation for serving Kent beers and locally sourced food. Our meals were filling and good value, but my attention was drawn to the beer:only two ales on handpump, but what a couple. American Pale Ale (APA) from Dark Star has been long on my wish list_I’m a great admirer of all the Dark Star beers that I’ve had, but this one really took the biscuit, like Hophead on stair rods. Next to this, Hopdaemon’s Shrimshander was pale by comparison, but still epic in its more understated way. Fresh hops, old ploughs out in the front, and the text of Speed the Plough displayed on the wall: a classic pub, and in line for pub of the year.

Four local ales and friendly service. Beautiful surroundings, and just the right distance from the railway for a decent walk there and back.