Fortune of War, Brighton

Having opened its doors way back in 1882, the Fortune of War is a bit of an institution in Brighton as far as seafront watering holes go. For me the main attraction of the Fortune of War remains its extremely large exterior beer garden, otherwise known as Brighton beach, and it is best experienced on a balmy summers evening when the outside area throngs with relaxed punters.. Popped in again a couple of weeks ago when the weather was not so good and actually utilised the upstairs section and it was equally pleasant sitting by the large top open window section overlooking the beach with a gentle sea breeze coming through, and some very decent sounds being played at a sensible volume. Was also surprised to find a couple of real ales on with two pumps on the beach side bar and one upstairs dispensing Laines Brewery Best, although it only turned out to be a false hand pump and the barman had to run downstairs to get the pint. This Brighton Institution will not be to everyone’s taste, but is certainly worth popping into to experience it at least once..

Describing itself as “Brighton’s legendary beach bar”, The Fortune of War occupies a position under the arches of Brighton’s seafront promenade. Outside, we learn that it was established in 1882 and we see prominently the phrase “The fortune of war, I’ll tell you plain, is a wooden leg and a golden chain”. As you might expect, there’s no hanging pub sign. There’s a smallish bar counter at promenade level. Upstairs, and stretching back under the promenade, is a large area that is done out to resemble an upturned wooden boat. The walls are decorated with nautical memorabilia, but, on fine days like my Friday visit, the attraction is sitting outside on the very edge of Brighton’s pebble beach. There’s an emphasis on live music with “funky DJ’s on Friday, Saturdays”, and, in an attempt to attract a lively, youngish beach crowd, there’s an emphasis on cocktails, sangria and the like. There’s a rather cosmopolitan Euro – style feel to the place. Remarkably, against the above background, real ale and cider are available and are actively promoted on the sandwich board outside. 2 pumps were offering W J King’s Brighton Best and Blonde, but the former had run out. An enjoyable pint of Blonde was enjoyed, however, in the inevitable plastic glass and at a rather pricey £ 3.50p. This is probably one of the most unlikely places where I’ve ever found real ale. Even though there’s not much in the way of choice, if it’s a nice sunny day and you fancy gazing out to sea and being a beach bum for a bit, you might want to look it out.

I'd walked past the Fortune of War before and dismissed it as just a commercial daytime beach bar. However the upstairs bar was buzzing on an evening visit and it was a real good atmosphere. No cask beer but they seem to specialise in ciders, seven of them, and I had a bottle of Aspall Blush the blackcurrent cider.