The Fishes, Oxford

The Fishes (surely Fish?) is located in the chocolate box village of Hinksey, about a mile from central Oxford and despite the OX2 postcode shared by Jericho, it’s a world away from the bustle of the town centre; a passing red Mk II Jag didn’t raise an eyebrow, but this is Oxfordshire after all. The first thing you notice on approach is the large car park, which I initially mistook for a BMW dealership, such is the customer demographic, though as I was shortly to find out, some of the poorer customers had arrived by bike. What you also notice is the stunning beer garden; ‘wooded beer estate’ would be a better description, featuring yonder an opened-out yurt for inclement weather and apparently live music, Woodstock being not far from here. Inside though and the heart sinks somewhat, for this is not some beautiful, historic pub – or if it was it is no longer – as it’s now what some would describe as a restaurant masquerading as a pub, looking a bit like a posh show home, exuding an air of smug superiority, to a wine bar soundtrack. There’s modern bare boarding, plush furniture including tweedy pouffes and menus to tables, featuring a panoply of dishes from around the world: France…Italy…India; if I want a curry, I’d rather go to an authentic Indian restaurant, thanks very much. Otherwise, there are olive green walls, with a white ceiling and pretentious, self-congratulatory quotes painted to the top of the walls, from the likes of Lionel Bart. Lighting is modern spotlight stuff, with décor comprising the odd knickknack, such as a stuffed animal, but otherwise large pot plants and modern watercolours; it’s all a bit corporate and contrived. Ales amounted to GK IPA, Tribute and Purity Pure Gold (£2.25 a half) served in a branded glass, looking like a truncated Apollo lunar capsule, lined with 1/3, 1/2 and 3/4-pint gradations, pulled by professional, friendly staff. Lacking in pub character, this isn’t a great place unless you fancy the garden or a meal. If I lived locally I’d use it, but would prefer to walk into town.

Official site of the Fishes - www.fishesoxford.co.uk

Official site of the Fishes - www.fishesoxford.co.uk